Microchips are a great way of ensuring we can trace our cats and kittens once they leave here. It also means we can prove which cat has been tested at the veterinary surgery. It is important that a client can look at the risks and benefits of microchipping and assess if they would like their cat or kitten to be microchipped.

​In our opinion, if your cat is indoor only and is just a pet, then a microchip may not always be necessary. Normally the higher generations such as F1, F2 and F3 will be chipped here anyway due to their more agile and inquisitive natures, forcing them to sneak out a window or door! Occasionally a microchip may fail and this has happened to us mostly in receiving kittens from breeders and only a couple of occasions on outgoing cats or kittens. Sometimes the chips do wander to weird and wonderful places! One of our dogs arrived with two chip numbers due to this occurring also!

Safety concerns with microchips
​
While the procedure should cause little or no discomfort, it is important that only a veterinary surgeon or other properly trained individual administers the microchip as incorrect placement of a microchip can have severe consequences. Significant complications from the appropriate implantation of microchips in cats appear to be exceptionally rare. Data reviewed by the WSAVA suggest microchips are a safe and effective means of identifying pets. They also state that, of the many millions of animals that have been microchipped, only a tiny proportion have had any type of problem reported (and usually simply related to movement or loss of the chip).
The Microchip Advisory Group (MAG) monitors adverse events associated with microchipping in the UK. Between 1996 and 2011 a total of 431 adverse events had been reported in all species (dogs, cats, exotics, etc), representing an average of approximately 27 each year. The most common adverse events reported were:

• Movement of the microchip away from the implantation site (56%)
• Loss or failure of the microchip (28%)
• Infection at the site of implantation (6%)
• Swelling at the site of implantation (6%)

Concern has been raised by some about the potential for implanted microchips to cause some types of cancer at the microchip site (eg, fibrosarcomas), and this has been suggested as a reason to avoid microchipping. However, if microchips ever cause the formation of tumours in dogs and cats, the risk appears to be incredibly low. Data from the MAG show that from 1996 to 2011 there were just three reports of a tumour developing possibly as a result of the microchip across all species. Currently, in the published literature we are also aware of two case reports of cats and two case reports of dogs developing tumours at, or adjacent to, the site of a microchip. However, in none of these cases could the formation of the tumour be directly linked to the microchip itself.
If microchips are a cause of certain cancers in either dogs or cats, this appears to be exceptionally rare, and the benefits of microchips in providing permanent identification of cats (and dogs) vastly outweigh any potential risks. Nevertheless, where adverse events are suspected, it is important that these are always documented and notified to the appropriate authorities.

icatcare.org

There appears to be a mis-conception around the use of vaccinations at a breeders premises. I have taken a few excerpts from the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons on the prescribing and usage of prescription medicines i.e. vaccinations for your reference.
 
In addition to this, we also have risk assessments, temperature/ storage monitoring procedures and various other steps in a health care plan to support a vaccination programme. There also has to be training and other things in place to undertake vaccination of animals. This is particularly useful and supportive of veterinary covid-19 policies and procedures, including restriction on travel or urgent medical procedures.
 
Breeders have been advertising kittens who haven’t even been vaccinated however, we have gone over and above to ensure that our kittens could leave fully vaccinated to their new homes. This also helps to ensure that we have minimal stress to kittens upon their health checks by the vet.
 
Prescription of veterinary medicines

4.3  Veterinary surgeons and those veterinary nurses who are also SQPs should prescribe responsibly and with due regard to the health and welfare of the animal.
4.4  POM-V medicines must be prescribed by a veterinary surgeon, who must first carry out a clinical assessment of the animal under his or her care. (See below for RCVS interpretations)
4.5  POM-VPS medicines may be prescribed in circumstances where a veterinary surgeon has carried out a clinical assessment and has the animals under his or her care. However, the Veterinary Medicines Regulations provide that POM-VPS may be prescribed in circumstances where the veterinary surgeon, pharmacist or SQP has made no clinical assessment of the animals and the animals are not under the prescriber’s care. 
4.6  NFA-VPS medicines may be supplied in circumstances where the veterinary surgeon or SQP is satisfied that the person who will use the product is competent to do so safely, and intends to use it for the purpose for which it is authorised.

Under his care
​
4.9  The Veterinary Medicines Regulations do not define the phrase 'under his care' and the RCVS has interpreted it as meaning that:

1. the veterinary surgeon must have been given the responsibility for the health of the animal or herd by the owner or the owner's agent
2. that responsibility must be real and not nominal
3. the animal or herd must have been seen immediately before prescription or,
4. recently enough or often enough for the veterinary surgeon to have personal knowledge of the condition of the animal or current health status of the herd or flock to make a diagnosis and prescribe
5. the veterinary surgeon must maintain clinical records of that herd/flock/individual

4.10  What amounts to 'recent enough' must be a matter for the professional judgement of the veterinary surgeon in the individual case.
4.11  A veterinary surgeon cannot usually have an animal under his or her care if there has been no physical examination; consequently a veterinary surgeon should not treat an animal or prescribe POM-V medicines via the Internet alone.
https://www.rcvs.org.uk/news-and-views/news/rcvs-covid-19-taskforce-further-extends-remote-prescribing/

Further guidance was released on point 4.11 stating that it was now possible to prescribe the drugs without seeing the animal first. This was particularly useful during the pandemic where appointments have become increasingly difficult to get for the animals. We try to ensure that the kittens receive an inspection from a veterinary oerson before administering any vaccinations. We also ensure we follow our risk assessments to be able to identify the safety of such vaccinations with kittens.

RCVS Covid-19 Taskforce further extends remote prescribing guidance

6 August 2020
The RCVS Council Covid-19 Taskforce has recently decided to extend until the end of September the College’s temporary guidance that allows veterinary surgeons to prescribe prescription-only veterinary medicines (POM-Vs) remotely, without first having physically examined the animal, but with a minor language adjustment to allow more room for individual professional judgement in each case.

RCVS Council originally decided to change the supporting guidance to the RCVS Code of Professional Conduct in March, in view of the nationwide lockdown measures in place at that time due to the coronavirus pandemic. This enabled veterinary practices to continue to provide the animal-owning public with veterinary services, a proportion of which via remote means, whilst safeguarding the health of their teams and clients.

In June, the Taskforce considered the latest situation at that time and decided to extend the guidance for a further eight weeks, with another review to be held no later than 6 August. At its recent meeting on 30 July, the Taskforce duly considered the guidance again, taking into consideration the pandemic’s progress and latest government guidance, the headline results from a survey of practice experience of remote consulting [to be published in the coming weeks], and additional third-party data from a number of veterinary practices.

The Taskforce considered in particular a number of additional issues, including: the need to continue to provide practices with flexibility in the face of possible local or national lockdowns; the need for inclusivity of those practice teams members and clients who may still be shielding; the likelihood of quarantine of members of the team due to travel and/or Test and Trace; and, the fact that no major safety issues had been identified as part of the RCVS-commissioned survey into the immediate impact of the temporary guidance.

The Taskforce was mindful that much of the data available to it was only relevant to small animal practice. It wished to attain more data about equine and farm animal practice, to ensure the differing needs of large animal practitioners could be considered more adequately. It also felt that if vets continued not to see clients, there could be an increased risk of an impact on their wellbeing, and on skills retention within the profession more widely.

On balance, however, the Taskforce considered the temporary guidance on remote prescribing should remain for the time being, but with a small change to step three of its coronavirus guidance flowchart (removing the words: ‘in the first instance’) to allow veterinary professionals more flexibility in deciding whether to consult remotely or face to face.

RCVS President Mandisa Greene, who chairs the Taskforce, said: “Whilst lockdown measures have been eased and matters have improved, we are far from being back to business as usual and the threat of returning to more severe lockdown measures, whether locally or nationally, is still very much alive.

“Nevertheless, with practices currently able to return to more routine treatments, the Taskforce recognises the need for more flexibility in our temporary guidance, so that veterinary surgeons can use their professional judgement to decide what is the most suitable approach in each individual case.”

The updated flowchart, along with all the College’s coronavirus guidance for the professions, is available online.

LINK TO RCVS ON COVID-19 GUIDANCE FOR VETERINARY SURGEONS
​https://www.rcvs.org.uk/setting-standards/advice-and-guidance/coronavirus-covid-19/

​I’m here with some advice and some very frustrating, disappointing, sad news.
 
Many of you who know my breeding practices and methods here at Stylisticat, will know that we can be quite ‘over-the-top’ when it comes to screening our cats. IF there even such a thing?
 
Recently, we got the vet out to draw blood from every single cat in the cattery and he took the wild cats away to be blood tested through blood draw and lab test at Glasgow University under sedation. We don’t do snap tests because they are so unreliable if it is something that could affect your entire cattery. Gladly for us and £5,000 later, we were able to confirm that every single cat tested negative for FeL-V and FIV. We were also pleased to announce that he condition scored every single cat a 5, except 1 over active stud who was a 4. The scale runs 1 is emaciated and 10 is obese. You want all cats to be a 4 or 5. We were very pleased!
 
We re-worked our 85-page health plan for the cattery and decided a number of ways we would do things going forward to keep our ‘cat colony’ squeaky clean and protected from anything incoming.  I am not sure if you are aware but after explaining our methods to a few breeders, they weren’t aware of a few things. IF you use disinfectant in a litter tray, place litter in it and use a faecal sample from this tray and you A: take the faeces the minute they are out to the vet your sample will only be around 50% actively showing bacteria if sent away, B: take the faeces to the vet in the morning, 25% effective and C: take refrigerated sample to the vet 50% effective. IF you touch the sample with anything other than a completely sterile object, it can fragment the DNA which any PCR test will collect. In layman’s terms, depending on how quickly your sample is transported, what temperature it is stored at and what it came into contact with before it went for sampling will really determine your results.
 
Most samples are only 45% accurate at getting a reading from any sample. That’s less than 50%. This is from Glasgow University’s figures on result sensitivity – our version of UC Davis. A PCR may be 99% accurate at finding any problems but the problem needs to be there to find, and not fragmented or destroyed through coming into contact with anything else, such as disinfectant and being at the right temperature until the point of test. It is 99% accurate at finding a foreign DNA in a 50% diseased sample, so 49% accurate in reality. More than half of your PCR faecal samples are false negatives.
 
The best way to get an accurate reading is to do what is called a faecal flush. This is where the cat is sedated (which you could do your routine bloods at) and 20mls of fluid is squirted into the colon through the rectum and then drawn out. This is repeated several times to really flush any colonic pockets and coax any parasites out that could be deep in the colonic wall. This is 85% accurate at finding ANYTHING faecal PCR’s would normally check for. It is recommended that you do this at least twice over a 4 weeks period to check, three times would be considered rigorous testing and most ideal. We have checked this with a few of our incoming cats and found this to be a very accurate description on the difference between the PCR which would be negative and a flush would be positive on the same cat. After treatment, two further flushes revealed negativity and then admittance to the cattery.
 
Moving on, you will remember a few years ago when I announced that Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and PRA-Bengal (PRA-b) was a potential issue in the Savannah breed - Link here: https://www.stylisticat.com/blog/archives/01-2017 or progressive-retinal-atrophy-pra-in-savannah-cats.html. Thanks to many of you who began to test all your cats, we were able to discover that it is just as much an issue as Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency, also known as PK Def. Thank you so much to all of you who test – it is so important in producing healthy kittens and it is our responsibility!
 
I am really saddened to be back here again after so many years on working on eradicating PRA and PK Def from lines that I have been working so hard on. We’ve only ever produced from one affected boy, which was the boy we discovered the initial problem with. He has two litters and two carriers were kept back. He got neutered and finally we worked down through 4 generations later to get an N/N kitten which we could say was definitely a keeper. Now remember, a carrier of PK Def, PRA or PRA-b is just that, a carrier of half the DNA. The kitten remains completely healthy and not affected at all by the genetics. Care MUST be taken not to put 2 carriers together as this would produce unhealthy kittens which were affected by the disease. It saddens me that even now, there are breeders who are not testing for this and some are relying on a test result 4 generations back, with no paperwork to save on test funds. Again, it is your responsibility to ensure that you test what your cats have and when you give a health guarantee, you are not selling your kitten to someone with a death sentence, or to a new/ inexperienced breeder who is not ready to understand the complication of having a number of carriers in a cattery. Can you really trust them? Can you ensure they won’t be tempted to ‘breed them together anyway’ and sell to unsuspecting pet buyers? How would it make you feel if you had control of that prevention? Be actively in control!
 
There have been some new cats come in over the past year from USA, Canada and most recently the UK. The lines behind these cats also include Europe and Russia. Most importantly, the lines have A1 and any other known catteries, which means it is likely that you all have some form of what I have to announce, in your catteries.
 
Polycystic Kidney Disease (PKD or PKD1)
 
This is a whole new ballgame. When I previously noted that the other 3 genetic tests are safe to breed from, provided a carrier was mated to a non-carrier, this would almost seem like a walk in the park if you had found it within your cats back then, because this one is a totally different concept.
 
If your cat tests N/N for PKD1, they are OK
If your cat tests N/P for PKD1, the cat has or will become affected from this disease.
If your cat tests P/P for PKD1, the cat has or will become affected from this disease.
 
Thus, there is no carrier state for this disease. They are either affected, or they are not.
I have shared some test results for you – please also note the blood typing. Most of the breeders I have spoken to about this, are not aware of blood typing. More on that in a separate post.

The technical term is that it's the result of a single, autosomal dominant gene abnormality. This means that every cat with the problem gene will have kidney disease. ALL with PKD, whether carriers or fully +/+ will still pass the genetic defect onto their kittens, when if you mate it with an otherwise healthy and unaffected cat. One copy/ half the DNA/ a carrier will be affected itself.
 
Given that I was planning to put a keeper female produced from 2 x USA cats, to a keeper from a Canada x UK pairing, we are looking at a potential serious issue being prevented – since they were both carriers of PKD!

You're thinking "the breed isn't showing loads of dying cats!" This will typically not show up until 7 years old or later. That's a lot of heartbreak to put someone through, let alone the suffering of the cat. 

Pockets of fluid form inside a cyst which grows over time. These can be detected through a scan when a cat is young, but the best way to find out is through genetic testing.
 
Will you be responsible?
Are you going to continue to breed from cats with PKD?
How are you going to plan to move on with your cattery if you find carrier/affected cats?
Are you going to be a responsible breeder and test every single cat BEFORE you breed from it?
Are you still relying on ‘someone’s word’ that the parents of your cats are normal?
Have you ever seen the actual paperwork showing that your cats are normal?
Do you have this ‘in-hand’?
Can you REALLY provide a health guarantee if you aren’t testing your cats? – The answer to that one is NO.
 
The best thing you can ever do is test your own cats. Always.
 
I know this is going to be absolutely devastating for some catteries because breeding from a carrier of PKD will produce carrier kittens that are also affected, so these cats need to be completely removed from the gene pool. You are going to have to take the responsibility on preventing this becoming a major problem in the breed such as the Persians where it’s as high as 38% have this disease.
 
We don’t know where it’s come in to the Savannah breed, like other genetics. But let’s all work together to get it out of this breed!

Let's take a look at this cat:

NR = Not requested. I already had the parents test papers, so I knew the cat was normal.
PRA and PRA-b are also normal.

I could've happily gone on to breed this cat with another cat who had the same results. Note the 'Add-On Options' at the bottom. The cat is a carrier for PKD. This cat will need to be neutered and petted out. 

Interestingly, this cat also carries one copy of the longhair gene, which we are also trying to eradicate from the breed, so it would be ideal not to breed 2 carriers of longhair gene together and try to keep back those who were N/N. I know in the scale of priority, this is relatively low, but if you are really pushing for that perfect savannah cat to breed from it would be negative across the board for everything such as this girl below. Now I just need to work on getting my agouti to A/A on this girls litter (at my own preference as the solid hair is not a health risk and also an accepted standard within the breed) and I'll have a completely solid line tested to carry forward, with exception to an HCM scan. 

​We just have to keep trying, harder. Push forward with the breeds development, even when faced with problems with the registry and genetics. The harder we work together, the more solid and healthy the breed will be on a united front!

- Kayleigh M-L @ Stylisticat

The UK ‘market’ is an interesting one for the Savannah cat. It’s very known worldwide to be one of the cheapest places to buy a Savannah cat. So why then are other breeders around the world not flooding UK breeders with requests to buy their kittens?
 
The reason is, the quality is just not in the UK market. The cats being produced in the UK are way behind others in the USA, Canada and many parts of Europe. That’s not to say that breeders aren’t working hard to strive for better lines, and better type in their kittens. It is very commonplace in the UK for breeders to swap kittens or sell every single kitten in their litters as breeders. The result of this is that every next-door neighbour and their Granny are breeding Savannah cats in the hope of making a quick buck or what we are called about frequently, which is, “I bought an F2, F4 and a boy to top up my retirement but it hasn’t worked, can you help me?”
 
Cats should never be used to ‘top up’ your bank balance. They are not commodities. If you feel like giving us a call because your ‘cheap’ breeder doesn’t have a clue and can’t help you, or your cat has a whole host of issues because a breeder accepted your call to ‘pop in’ for stud on them – please STOP! We are not here to pick up the pieces from all of these other so-called breeders sharing their cats across studs that haven’t had basic blood tests done, never mind any faecal samples or swabs to safeguard your darling kitty from a whole host of issues.
 
Feel free to use our guides – they have been written to give you a fully comprehensive guide on safeguarding your cats and kittens.
 
You have to understand that the breeders in the UK are one of the most notorious for ‘bitching’ or attacking those who are more successful than them or who have lucrative lines within their cattery, let alone every single one of their cats being imports with the exception of those who have been kept back to breed from a litter.
 
I previously have written a guide to breeding which included all of the costs but again I just wanted to reiterate why things cost they do when they come from exceptional lines.
 
A baseline would be an F7 male who cost $6,500 USD to purchase, this is the equivalent of £5,295 GBP. An SBT female at $4,500 is equivalent to £3,666 GBP at today’s rate but that's BEFORE costs!
 
Let me show you how the costs quickly mount up to obtain this line into the UK and the dedication you must have not only financially IN but that there’s no guarantee of an OUT and you cannot simply be in this to create your ‘buck’.

Health tests are also not on this table as every state charges different fees for FeL-V/ FIV, Upper Respiratory panels and Faecal screens. This would average around £500 per kitten.
 
*QUARANTINE
A fully licensed DEFRA-APPROVED facility for incoming DWA animals is non-existent in the UK unless you are a private holder. It takes years of work to get everything approved and signed off in Scotland, to get a quarantine unit approved by the Scottish Government. This comes with a massive cost and investment. You can put normal cats and dogs into quarantine but F2 onwards do NOT require quarantine. F1 cats DO require quarantine BUT they are Dangerous Wild Animals in the UK which means they are subject to a licence. This means they cannot be quarantined in a normal UK quarantine station. It takes a lot of dedication to create a quarantine station and have it approved. You also need to have a van and have it fitted out and approved by the Government for transporting them or a certified transporter for DWA cats under rabies control.
 
With all this being clearer, ask yourself why breeders get upset in the UK? It’s dog-eat-dog or cat-eat-cat more like. Let’s all pretend to be friends then we will all message each other privately about the other one who has nice kittens. Childs play. Something I would sincerely consider is that Facebook allows children to read your posts and as such, it is an absolutely disgusting way to conduct yourself not only in front of children, but for your clients – you are only hurting yourself!
 
Sorry, we’re not interested. We’re ‘grown-up’ breeders J
 
Lately, we had agreed a transfer of our cattery to someone very close to us to allow us to focus on a new centre to focus on our conservation work which has been a real success behind the scenes. When we announced that these plans were made and everything came together, we received many calls and messages from our UK, American, Asian and Canadian friends and clients not to do the transfer, as it would be a mistake. We really appreciate these messages and as such, we have been persuaded to try to do both our new centre and keep the cats while we do this. It will be a challenge to say the least but we have put in so much effort over the years to produce some really amazing kittens and it can only get better when you see our new big black nosed Drinkwater F1’s and F2’s which have not yet made way to the page.
 
We also cannot wait to show you our spring babies. They are so adorable and from the most AMAZING lines you will see out there – we’ve spent years constructing them.

When you see an F7 or F8 created from 5 generations of lines (if they even have a pedigree) from the same cats that everyone else is using in the UK with HUGE round eyes, round faces and a mousey brown coat with faded spots and no contrast, ask yourself WHY there is a price difference between big bold gold coats, with jet black spots and a gorgeous wild face. That's not to say that every coat is perfect on kittens coming from imports but when the results are consistently 'far from type' on an island country - ask yourself if the breeder has a 'cheap' breeding cattery or an elusive, finely hand-picked line, with years dedicated to import and improvement.,,,you be the judge.

Peace out!
KML

In response to the articles as displayed in the Daily Mail and Mail Online on April 27 2020.

Misconceptions and Misquotes

1. Joe Exotic is not my friend.
2.  I consulted with 5 different facilities about enclosure design. Joe Exotic was one of them.
3. I am not campaigning for his release from prison.
4. I have never been to GW Zoo nor have I met Joe Exotic in person.
5. I do not support the behaviour portrayed by Joe Exotic or the way he conducted himself at the GW Zoo as shown on the Tiger King series.
6. I do not have a facility in Perthshire.
7. Savannah cats make good pets.
8. Wild cats such as Caracals, Servals, Bobcats etc. do not make good pets in domestic environments.
9. We are not the only facility in the UK to keep and place DWA cats.
10. Every facility should be looked at on it's own merits. We always work toward the best interest of the cats in our care.
11. I do not see any similarities between myself and Joe Exotic.
12. As stated on our website, we do not place wild cats as pets.

The interest in "Tiger King" has brought a lot of attention our way.  I have no personal knowledge of how those facilities were run so have no comments about "Tiger King" or Joe Exotic.  We would be happy to discuss the care of our animals and answer questions about our facility and new conservation centre.

Kayleigh McIntosh-Lowrie

Updated 13th May 2020
Response received from Daily Record Complaints:
"You have complained that you are not best friends with Joe Exotic. It is worth noting that nowhere within the article does it describe you and Joe Exotic as the 'best of friends' as you have suggested in your complaint. The article describes you as a 'pal' and a 'long-time friend'. 

Having read the transcript of your interview, I understand that you spoke to Joe Exotic through Facebook and Messenger, and you state: 'I haven’t spoken to him for a few years now' and that 'We have common friends'.

You have complained that the article is inaccurate to have stated that you have a puma-breeding programme at an undisclosed location in Perthshire. This information came from an anonymous source, and although not a significant inaccuracy, the publication would be happy to remove this statement from the article.

You have also disputed the statement: 'Kayleigh lives in Denny, Stirlingshire, where she has bred bobcats and Savannah cats for sale to wealthy buyers for up to £7500 each', specifically the suggestion that you have sold a bobcat. I note within your interview that you are quoted stating that 'Bobcats can go for £7,500'. However, the publication would be happy to remove this paragraph as a gesture of goodwill. 

In light of your concerns of the quote: 'If they are treated correctly, they make fantastic pets – more like dogs than cats in the way they bond', the publication would be happy to clarify that this is in relation to Savannah Cats, as a gesture of goodwill. 

Finally, you have complained that you are not the only person in the UK to keep or sell DWA cats. I note that the article states that you are the only breeder in Scotland, not in the UK."

Section 1.
 
What is the process of obtaining a serval, caracal, bobcat or lynx kitten from Stylisticat?
 
First of all, we ask that you submit a kitten application and that gives us the basic information such as your current amount of animals and experience with animals. We will ask you to provide proof of address (such as a utility bill) and a current passport and driving licence which matches the proof of address given for two picture identification purposes. This totals 3 proofs of identity so we know you are who you say you are!

We will then go through all the requirements of owning a wildcat and the kind of responsibilities it entails. You need to arm yourself with a wealth of knowledge and come up with several plans to implement in case of emergencies. You also need to think about your will and what would happen with your cat if you should die. You need to learn about the behaviour of your chosen wildcat and look into how you will increase your bond and chances of a successful relationship. We'll make sure you're really ready for a wildcat before placing one with you, for both of your sakes.

Can I get two at once for breeding?

We only allow experienced handlers to have two wildcats at the one time.
 
Section 2.
 
What about my DWA licence (in the UK only) or permits (USA, Canada and EU) to keep a serval?
 
After we have verified who you are, we will help you obtain your DWA licence if you don’t already have one.  If you do require a permit then we will require a copy of this before we will release the kitten to you. The reason for this is that we have to lodge proof of your licence to our local council/ state department for animal welfare. This a requirement of all kitten sales which are required to have a licence on our premises. You can read more about DWA Licences in the UK here: https://www.stylisticat.com/blog/dwa-licence-questions
 
Where do I start?
 
So you are wondering how we have come to own such beautiful cats and wondered where to start, whilst you give the idea of exotic cat or dangerous wild animal licensed cat ownership very careful consideration…
 
We receive many questions on a daily basis on how to obtain these animals and if they are all as wonderfully tame as they are in our videos which we post regularly on social media. I decided to write this small article as a rough guide to cover these questions and explain reasons behind my answers. I will also discuss the breeding aspect of these animals very lightly.
 
I will refer to the “DWA”, and the, “DWAA” throughout and these abbreviate the “Dangerous Wild Animal” and “Dangerous Wild Animal Act”.
 
Any animal considered not to be domesticated falls into the DWA category in the United Kingdom. You will find that parts of the world have different rules and do not even licence some wild cats for private ownership. In some countries not only wild cat ownership, but hybrid ownership is banned altogether. I would suggest that before deciding to really research private exotic cat ownership, whether this be a hybrid or full wild cat, please do check your local laws depending on which state or country you are in. This is primarily aimed at the UK DWAA, but can be used as a guideline or part of your research on wild cat ownership anywhere in the world as I hope it can give you some useful information.
 
The Dangerous Wild Animals Act was first produced in 1976 and amended in 2010. The purpose of the act was to prevent incompetent ownership of the larger species which were widely available around the time of the Act’s compilation. Do not get me wrong, there are still a number of private owners in the UK with leopards, pumas, cheetahs, tigers and other larger species but they are licensed and inspected annually/ bi-annually to ensure the welfare of the animal is being prioritised.
 
There are no different rules in Scotland, Northern Ireland, Wales or England on the DWAA.
 
What is the requirements of a DWA Licence and how do I find out more?

Firstly, there are no physical national requirements on enclosure sizes, materials, lighting, heating or design structure. The answer is simply- speak to your local council animal welfare officer. Each individual council or county has their own requirements on what they feel meets the DWAA compliance for them to issue you with a licence.
 
I will give you an example of 4 different wild cat owners enclosure types and they all have DWA Licenses:
 
 
NOTE: the comfort rating and security rating is a personal opinion and is not issued by a council.
 
The rating is inserted to help potential DWA cats keepers to understand the difference that enclosures can make to the life of the animals in their care.
 
Who enforces the DWAA?
 
Your local council holds full responsibility to enforce the DWAA and issue or refuse to issue licences to Dangerous Wild Animal keepers.
 
It is worth noting that you must apply for a DWA licence before you obtain your animal you intend to keep on your premises.
 
Most councils have application forms for a DWA licence so by asking for one well in advance, you will have an insight into what information the council will require from you. It may also be worth speaking to your council DWA officer to gain the contact details of the Veterinary Surgeon who will be inspecting your enclosure. You can then contact her/ him directly and discuss any concerns or recommendations they may have well before you start your building project.
 
It is worth remembering that there are a few requirements that must be met to adhere to the act and this is what the council is there to enforce under the act.
 
What are the basic requirements of a DWA Licence?
 
The council will check to ensure that:

• Your animal is not likely to cause nuisance to neighbours through noise or smell for example,

• You have a current public liability insurance policy to cover the animal,
• You fully understand what the animal is required to eat and your proposed food is adequate,

• You fully understand the characteristics of the animal inclusive of exercise requirements,

• Your animal can exercise and move freely within the enclosure proposed,
• Your enclosure is constructed of good materials (to keep the animal secure) although each council has different ideas on what is secure or not,

• Fire Extinguisher and you can operate it,
• Emergency Procedures,
• Dedicated Veterinary Surgeon for the animal,
• Vaccination Procedures (how will the animal be annually protected and will the vet come to you),

• Heating is adequate for the animal to be comfortable in all weathers,
• Accommodation will be dry and ventilated if required,
• Accommodation will have adequate entry/ exit procedures i.e. double or triple door system.
• If you are trying to licence your home, you must have secure provisions installed such as:

                        Self-close door systems,
                        Secure entry systems where the animal can be accessed i.e. key/ pin code,
                        Lockable windows,
                        Adequate sanitary provision,
                        Animal carriers for emergency vacate,
                        Emergency procedures,
                        Fire Extinguishers,
                        Appropriate meat storage (raw meat & chicks etc),

It may be worth thinking thoroughly through your escape procedures very thoroughly as some councils may not grant a licence on the basis of poor enclosure structure or lack of knowledge. We have a gamekeeper in the local area who has been allocated an emergency position in case of escape and we are unable to capture. The purpose of this is to ensure that there is no threat to the public. It is then down to the individual licensee to ensure that they never have to make that call…
 
If a licence will be issued, it will include the following:

• How many animals are covered on the licence and what species,
• Where the animals will be kept,
• The address of the property,
• The persons licensed to keep the animals (this usually ties in with public liability insurance too so do make sure you have all the names of the people you require to be in contact with the animal on the licence).

• If the applicant is over the age of 18 years and has been previously disqualified from keeping DWA animals,

• A police check for all persons named on the licence,
• Any restrictions placed on the licence i.e. number of DWA kittens allowed on premises and age they should be moved from the home DWA out into the main enclosures. It will also detail the moving of the animals and that this should be done in appropriate, secure carriers.

• A fee payable to the council to cover vet visits and administration, usually around £200 –£300 depending on the area you live.

 
If I plan to breed DWA’s – what happens when another one comes for breeding?
 
Call your council well in advance to notify them and ensure they add the cat on to your licence. Councils have the right to discretion and as this is a temporary situation you will be able to add on the animal for a short period.
 
Do I really need a licence? How would anyone know any different?
 
Power to seize
 
Firstly, we do not trade any animals under the DWA to non-DWA holders. Please do not ask us as we will not risk the safety of our animals.
 
We have exceptionally high-standards in our facility and if you are not deemed competent by the local authority in your area, then we will not undermine this decision, or overrule and give you a cat anyway.
 
“But I’m about to build an enclosure”
“I’m just waiting on my inspection”
“I’ll build the enclosure before the kitten gets big”
“It’s only the one cat, so I don’t think I really need an enclosure”
 
If you would like a kitten from us which requires a DWA licence then please provide us with a copy of your licence that has already been granted.
 
NOTE: Where an animal is being kept contrary to the section 1 (1) of the DWAA (held without a licence when it requires a licence) or any condition of your DWA licence is contravened/ you are non-compliant, the council may seize your animal.
 
The council can hold on to it, rehome it, destroy it or whatever they decide and they NOT liable to pay any compensation for the animal to the owner. Not only do they not need to compensate the owner but they can also charge fees for uplifting the animal and doing what they have decided to do with it. This debt is recoverable through court.
 
I find it difficult to encounter the wild cats which I would like to own…why is everyone so protective?
 
Without a zoo licence, it is not possible to allow visitors to come and visit our animals any more than a few days per year. This also goes for the USA – you need an exhibitors licence to be able to show your animals to other people. Also, you need to work for trust. Network. Visit places if people will allow you to. If breeders of the animal you want to keep are being secretive, ask yourself why. It can be difficult to source if wild cats are inbred or not without being in contact with other people who have bought cats from the person you decide to buy from. If you genuinely want to purchase a wild cat or F1 hybrid then ask breeders if you can spend some time with the breeds they have, stating your genuine interest in purchasing one. Some breeders may even accept volunteers, but be sure that they have adequate insurance to cover others in with their DWA animals. To explain this further, one of our insurance policies only covers those named on the licence, so we have had to take out a further policy to cover those who are not named. By having two, we can change the amount of liability and the type of contact with the animals.
 
What cats are covered under the DWAA?
 
A selection – (remember if it is not considered domestic, then a licence is applicable):
Bobcat
Caracal
Cheetah
Jaguar
Lion
Lynx
Ocelot
Puma
Serval
Tiger

Section 3. Enclosure Building
 
If I have an enclosure built and a DWA licence granted, can I bring the animal in the house?
 
No. Not unless you have your house or more specifically an area of the house dedicated to DWA animals. This is not easily attainable but is achievable through time and knowledge.
 
What’s the point is keeping a DWA animal outside in an enclosure all the time? I want a DWA pet.
 
Firstly, they are not domestic pets. A dangerous wild animal licence covers you for animals that are not “pets”. The term pet is part of the reason why the act was introduced. The fact that these animals are not domesticated means that they are not well-suited to houses or the domestic lifestyle. It is often that these animals will not use a litter tray or play with something that was a much cherished possession of their owners. DWA cats are quicker, smarter, more agile and can give bigger bites than your average domestic cat – they need to be kept secure not only for public safety, but for their own. Their bites are not always in an aggressive manner and merely playing or love bites, but some people may not be able to tell the difference and get upset. The main reason that they are not suited to the indoors only without any outdoor provision is purely for the cats safety more than anything else. It has been known that they have jumped through a window when they've got a fright.
 
If you decide to bring your cat in and it escapes, you will have to put your emergency procedures into place and you could lose your cat and your licence. If you really want your DWA cat in the house, plan carefully and have it onto your licence. We do NOT recommend that you get a wild cat as a pet for a domestic environment.

​
Do I need to make any special housing arrangements for my Serval, Caracal, Bobcat or Lynx?
 
African Serval, Caracal or other medium wildcat-  or F1 Savannah enclosure:

For an F1 or serval, you need an enclosure. We prefer full metal enclosures - contact us for a supplier. We have a special licence which covers an area of our home under the special breeder DWA Licence we hold, but this is not easily attained or recommended.

It is not just about the construction of the enclosure that is important but also what is inside it that counts. You need to think about the natural environment and not just pop them into a wooden shed with a small outdoor area. They should be able to run and get out of breath, Play hide and seek, splash in the water, jump up high, sit on a perch, shelter from rain or sun, scratch their claws, do the toilet in a clean area every time and, of course, explore new objects.
 
From time to time we will reconstruct the whole inside of the enclosures to ensure that they feel like they are somewhere exciting again.
 
The minimum space we would keep F1's (up to 3 plus a male) or a serval (per serval) in is 50 square metres. An example of this is in the picture on the right.
 
You want to make sure they have a place where if they feel like they want to be alone, they can be. They sometimes do not want company and like to go and sleep somewhere up high.
 
This is the case for the indoor rooms within our cattery buildings too. Importantly, they need to be able to interested in every environment that they live in, especially when they are with other cats. This room pictured on the left, is in the process of being built. The windows are double sided, with Perspex on the inside, glass on the outside and then meshed over. Incidences have occurred where servals have jumped through windows so mesh is a security system for safety, even though it goes out into the enclosure. Making them feel part of the family even if they live outside is important. It’s always worth changing things up or moving things around to enrich their lives with new surroundings.

If you do not provide adequate comfort and environmental security for them then you may end up with a worst case scenario – a fight between cats. Wildcats can fight each other to the death and therefore you do not want to leave things to chance. Make sure they have the opportunity to be where they feel safe and secure or can jump out the way of a grumpy enclosure-mate if need be.

You can put a lot of things inside your housing. These include things such as:
Steps
Mobiles
Hanging leaves
Artificial Ivy
Artificial Plants
Towers
Bead counter
Picture Frames
Blankets
Cushions
Several litter trays
Water bowls to prevent algae growth on bowls outside
CCTV
Beds
Cubby Holes
Rope Bridges
High Beams and walkways
TV’s
Heaters
Heatpads
Fireplaces
Posters

​The 12 basics for a happy wildcat are:

1. Strongly constructed spacious enclosure,
2. An indoor area,
3. An outdoor area,
4. Beams,
5. High walkways.
6. CCTV,
7. Security lighting,
8. Indoor heating,
9. Absorbent bedding,
10. Toys,
11. Cubby holes.
12. Cleanable and disinfectable terrain

 
If you can afford to build your enclosure fully in metal then we would recommend it simply because it’s easier to clean, much more longer lasting and require minimum maintenance. You can build one yourself or use a supplier.

a. Design
 
Try to include different zones such as water play, balls, rolling around, jumping, climbing. These areas need to be cleaned and also they need to be maintained so try not to make them too difficult to look after. Cats often find places to defecate that are inaccessible by humans so try not to construct something, which causes issues before the cats are even in it. A planted are is also desirable – even with artificial plants.

b. Enrichment
 
You can use rope swings, plants, balls, ball pits, swimming pools, sand pits, bark, hanging baskets, water features, boxes, artificial ivy and logs to create beautiful zones which are interesting to your cat. Try to avoid using concrete slabs over the whole area because it isn’t soft on your cat’s paws and therefore they can wear their pads away walking on concrete all day. Try and think like a cat, make it interesting, put food inside cardboard boxes, have high shelves, hang logs to walk along – important part – have fun doing it!

c. Suppliers
 
Contact us for local suppliers in the UK.

What size should the enclosure be?

This really does depend on your availability of space. Remember they need to be able to run about, so think of this when planning your design. They don't stay tiny kittens forever!

​Section 4. Feeding and Routine
What do they eat?
 
Initially they are raised on a special milk called Zoologic Milk Matrix 33/40. You will need to purchase a bag of this either from us or from the USA directly. This milk is an imported product. We sell the bags from £55.00.
 
In the UK, we recommend a complete mix for your servals food. We supply your servals food for the first few days but you must ensure you have enough stock at any given time to last for two weeks. You will need a separate freezer to be able to store your kittens food as it cannot be stored alongside human food. You will also need an area which you can thaw your kittens food to room temperature. NEVER thaw raw meat in a microwave. In emergencies, if you have forgotten to thaw the meat the night before, then you can thaw it in cold running water in the sink. There are a variety of meats which we can supply you with Kiezebrink raw meat in frozen overnight shipping.
​
The ones we recommend come in 500g or 1kg per unit and this is our prices:

Be very careful with whole prey and raw meat – always cleanse and disinfect the area where they have eaten the meat and collect any uneaten parts. Dispose of immediately in an outside sealed bin. Do not store in the home. A whole prey is not an effective diet on it’s own unless the full body including the organs have been ingested.
 
Section 5. Supplements
What about supplements – what do I use?

Raw meat supplement plus calcium        £9.60 (£8.00 ex.Tax)
 
Suitable to supplement a raw meat diet without bones, for both dogs and cats.
Contains all required vitamins and minerals for dogs and cats, according to European guidelines. Daily easy to use dosages, by using the included measuring spoon.
 
Why this supplement? 
This supplement contains a high level of calcium and is therefore suitable to supplement a raw meat diet without bones. It contains other minerals and vitamins, not just calcium, which dogs and cats need.
 
This supplement is an ideal addition to:
A self-composed raw meat diet that contains muscle meat and possibly organ meat, but no meaty bones.
A diet in which variation is not possible because of allergies for example.
A diet that for any reason there are doubts about the completeness.
 
We also have a raw meat supplement without calcium.

Bayopet Megaflex £8.99
 
For the formation of connective tissue and musculoskeletal system, your cat requires special nutrients. During growth, times of high physical activity, and as your cat ages,he/she require more of these nutrients than is normally found in traditional cat food.
 
Megaflex provides your animal with these nutrients and revives normal tissue regeneration. Specially formulated with biologically enriched, cartilage-protecting substances that supply important nutrients necessary for the development and repair of cartilage.
 
Megaflex ingredients
 
Green New Zealand mussel: 
Glycosaminglycans (GAG), Chondroitin-4-Sulphate and Chondroitin-6-Sulfate, also further cartilage-protecting, all natural ingredients.
Willow bark:
contains natural substances that support the autochthonous regulation in cases of inflammation and pain.
Rampion:
Has supportive, decongestant and soothing qualities.
Humans use it to avoid joint degradation.
Nettle leafs:
counteract cartilage-decomposition and joint degradation with silica and other ingredients.
Vegetable oils:
supports the autochtone reparation processes of the connective tissue.
The vegetable oils contained are rich with non-saturated Omega-3 and Omega-6-fatty acids.
Vitamin E:
helps your cat absorb free radicals useful for treating deficiencies of the connective tissue, muscles, and joints.
 
Ingredients
Meat & meat by-products, fish & fish by-products, dried mussel, vegetable by-products, yeast, vegetable oil, trace elements. 
 
Additives:
vitamin E (100,000 mg/kg).
 
Analytical constituents
protein 25.7 %
fat 5.7 %
fibre 1.6 %
ash 7.4 %
 
Cat's weight feeding amount in g / day
up to 5 kg1 measuring cup (2 g)
over 5 kg2 measuring cups (4 g)
 
Days we feed it
Tuesday Saturday
 
Grau Bone Meal  - £7.50
 
Grau Bone Meal is the ideal calcium supplement for your cat because it contains natural minerals and trace elements and has really high bioavailability so that your cat can effectively reabsorb it. The nutrients contained in bone meal are vital for developing a strong skeleton and powerful jaw, and are particularly important for growth. Grau Bone Meal is suitable for cats and dogs.
 
Grau Bone Meal can be used to supplement raw feeding (BARF) to correct an imbalanced calcium-phosphorous balance. Grau bone meal is also suitable for cats that don't tolerate bones well.
 
Grau Bone Meal:

• Calcium supply in home-cooked rations (BARF)
• Extra high bioavailability
• Supports bone and skeletal development
• Vital for a strong jaw

 
Caution: Due to the high calcium content, cats only require less than half a pinch of ground bone per day! Do not exceed this dosage and do not give WITH other meaty bones or calcium supplement or supplement containing calcium.
 
Note: Grau Bone Meal is exposed to high temperatures and enormous pressure during the cooking process. Heat and pressure kills all the germs so that cats and dogs are not infected with pathogens such as BSE and other diseases.
 
Ingredients:
100% ground bone (beef).
 
Additives:
No additives, according to the manufacturer.
 
Analytical constituents
protein 0.2 %
fat 0.3 %
fibre 0.3 %
ash 81.4 %
calcium 35.7 %
phosphorus 25.6 %
magnesium 0.022 %
sodium 0.016 %
 
Feeding recommendation:
Cats: 1.5g every 2-4 days (depending on the calcium content of meat used and whole prey provided).
A 0.5g measuring spoon is included in the packaging.
 
Caution: Due to the high calcium content and bioavailablity of this product, please do not exceed the dosage stated above if giving to your cat.

​Grau Seaweed Meal - £6.99 400g
 
This natural product is exclusively comprised of fresh seaweed. The many natural minerals, vitamins and amino acids in this product boost pigmentation and bring out the natural colour of the skin and coat. This is particularly noticeable with dark fur. It supports metabolism and the immune system and has a direct effect on vitality, looks and performance.
Natural seaweed meal contains a high amount of iodine, which is essential for a healthy functioning thyroid.
 
 
Nutritional supplement
Supports any natural pigmentation from white to black
Contains 380,g/kg of natural iodine
Promotes a thick and shiny coat
Please note: Seaweed meal should not be used with Hyperthyroidism.
 
Ingredients
Dried, fresh seaweed (Asyophyllum nodosum)
 
Additives: No additives, according to the manufacturer.
 
Analytical constituents
 
Protein 6.8 %
fat        3.2 %
fibre     8.2 %
ash      24.8 %
moisture 8.9 %
 
Luposan Herbal Power 30 - £14.99 600g
 
Feeding with Luposan Herbal Power 30 provides the basis for a healthy metabolism. Herbal Power 30 is a unique herbal food supplement containing micro-algae and many other natural components, including: minerals, amino acids, trace elements, vitamins and non-saturated fatty acids.
Herbal Power 30 makes any food, however good, easier to digest and metabolise. Administered daily, Herbal Power contributes to:
 
Improved nutrient absorption
Shiny coat
Healthy skin
Optimal metabolism
Digestive tract regulation and cleaning; toxin disposal
Regular natural bowel function
Improved natural immune response
Luposan Herbal Power 30 contains approx. 50% herbs including; nettles, horsetail, burdock, pansies, and rose hips, approx. 30% sea algaes and micro-algaes including chlorella algae, and approx. 20% seeds (milk thistle, flax seed).
 
Ingredients:
Herb mixture (apprx. 50%, incl. stinging nettle leaves, horsetail, burdock root, pansy, rose hips, milk thistle, grape seed extract, etc.), algae (apprx. 30%, sea and microalgae), seeds (apprx. 20%, incl. milk thistle, linseed).
 
Analytical constituents
 
Protein 13.9 %
Fat 10.8 %
Fibre 19.2 %
Ash 29.4 %
Calcium 12.0 %
phosphorus 0.4 %
moisture 5.3 %
sodium 0.03 %
 
How often do I feed them? And do they eat kibble or biscuits?
 
A serval kitten needs 4 feeds per day until about 6 months old and then they can reduce down to 2 – 3 feeds per day of meat. You can do 2 bottle feeds per day until 9 months old too. Once 9 months old, a bottle feed can just be part of a bonding process and every 2 or 3 days to once per week. You must be careful when adding supplement to the diet if giving bottles because it contains everything they need in their diet and should not be over-supplemented.
 
I have been asked by a few people recently for help with feeding their serval and caracal kittens. I thought I would compose this guide to make things easier for you instead of you having to recalculate daily and getting all flustered!
                                   
Firstly, congratulations on your new baby and hello to those who are here as part of their research on owning one of these beautiful animals. I would also like to recommend this guide to those who have asked how much milk to feed a Savannah kitten or how much to feed a newborn wildcat kitten.

I will also include some recommendations on what you can purchase to support the feeding routine of your serval kitten/ cub, caracal kitten/ cub, bobcat kitten/ cub or lynx kitten/ cub in the UK. This includes teats, bottles and methods which we use to feed our kittens.
  
Generally, we recommend that as soon as we have established a good feeding routine with a serval or caracal kitten, that it comes to you to start the bonding process. Waiting even past 6 weeks can really impact of the bonding process which you will have and the trust that can be built from a crucial stage in their emotional and sensory development. HOWEVER please note:

ENGLAND
The Animal Welfare (Licensing of Activities Involving Animals) (England) Regulations 2018 
 5.—(1) The purchase, or sale, by or on behalf of the licence holder of any of the following is prohibited--
 
(a)unweaned mammals;
(b)mammals weaned at an age at which they should not have been weaned;
(c)non-mammals that are incapable of feeding themselves;
(d)puppies, cats, ferrets or rabbits, aged under 8 weeks.
(4) No female animal with unweaned offspring may be removed from its home environment and newborn, unweaned or dependent offspring must not be removed from their mothers.
 
It is illegal in England to take a kitten from its mother to hand-rear. We are lucky to have social mothers who allow us to socialise kittens in tandem to the mother raising them.

I always recommend that your serval or caracal kitten vaccination is not normally carried out until at least 16 weeks of age due to the slower rate of growth. This is why the feeding requirements are crucial because you become Mum or Dad; you become the only source of life for these kittens and it's crucial you get it right.                                                                                                      
 
Many of you who follow serval and caracal groups on social media will have read recently of a number of servals who have been suffering from a calcium deficiency where, in layman's terms, the bones fracture in the legs and the kittens become unable to support the weight of their bodies on their legs. Many of them have died. There has been a number of deaths of serval and caracal kittens which have been delivered with broken legs over the past few years, not only in the USA but in Europe and this rate appears to be increasing as people buy servals, often related, then breed them to make a quick buck. None of these breeders appear to know or more importantly care what they are doing. These servals are arriving with CITES papers with Savannah written on them and we have been contacted by people who are living in fear that their cats are illegal and fear of them being seized and destroyed. Two breeders which we urge to err on the side of caution (or basically just set your money on fire) with are in Russia and Ukraine. You do not want to go through the heartache that several people have been through with these breeders. Even more recently, servals are being sold from the UK without any paperwork at all and sent abroad in the hope that they won’t get caught or seized. This becomes more about the money than the animals.
BE CAREFUL.

As you know, I am very keen on supplementation and diet research for all of our cats. Some breeders heavily stress by feeding a mixed whole prey diet, that your serval or caracal kitten would be perfectly healthy and this is true to an extent. Often cats in captivity do not eat the whole prey which they would in the wild because they know that their next meal is coming by sunset. Feeding your serval or caracal kitten on chicken drumsticks and mixed minced meat is NOT sufficient for their diet. They need much more than raw meat and some bones. We always recommend you buy Keizebrink Organ Mix to add to your meat and we ALWAYS use carefully measured supplements which are like multivitamins for cats - the main ones are here. It is important that once your serval kitten is weaned that you still add some milk to their meat for the first 6 - 9 months of their life as kittens. Many will still feed them bottles to keep that bond - and that is perfectly okay also. If you do not want to feed a bottle to a serval or caracal then this is not the right kitten for you. This is a major part of the 'breakthrough-barrier' in getting them used to living in captivity alongside you. 

So here are some details that should hopefully get you started.

1. Since each ml of water weights 1 g, 0.1 liters of water = 100 grams. 1 kilogram (kg) = 1000 grams. This means 100 g = 0.1 kg.·    
2. So, 10% bodyweight of a 150g kitten is 15g of powder with 30ml of water per day – since 30g of water weighs 30ml. 20% bodyweight is 30g of powder with 60ml of water, per day divided into equal feeds – at least 5 but preferably more up to 12 for smaller kittens at this weight. You can put milk in a saucer twice per day once they are feeding.
3. The heavier weights, before using a saucer, are more indicated towards servals and other larger cats, since it’s important that they get their nutrients from milk for longer due to the slower rate of growth than a domestic kitten. You can switch to a saucer once your domesticated kitten eating food.
4. We would recommend this guide for use in feeding F1 Savannah Kittens.
5. Powders are in a 1 : 2 ratio of powder to water.

I’ve given you a minimum and maximum range to help those who want to check what the daily healthy range is for their kitten.
 
How to start weaning if you are raising an orphan
 
You would ideally feed from a teaspoon (silver spoon) and wedge just under the front teeth at about 4 weeks old. Your kitten will show resistance to this, but once they get a taste, they will likely start to nibble it off the spoon. You may find whatever you get into their mouth they just push back out again with their tongue. This is a normal part of weaning and don’t lose hope. Keep trying twice a day and continue with bottle feeds as normal. Once they take it easily off the spoon you can lure them to lean down to the bowl with the spoon. You might find they only eat the bits you scoop onto the spoon but keep encouraging them to follow the spoon to the bowl and they will soon be eating from the bowl without your help.
 
You should only need weaning paste for about a week at the most and then you can move onto more chewy, thicker textures. Be very careful about giving him chicken drumsticks as they don’t really have that much goodness in them due to the fact that the cats need organs in their diet to be complete. The chicken meat and bone is good but they will be too little to chew the bone. The better alternative is day old chicks. They are GREAT fun. Very tasty, high in nutrients and fun to throw about for an hour before eating. The bones are soft in day old chicks and so easy to eat.
 
AT NO POINT SHOULD YOU GIVE YOUR SERVAL BISCUITS/ KIBBLE. IT IS NOT A NATURAL FOOD FOR THEM.
 
Junior Diet
 
You can feed your kitten up to 6 - 10% of their body weight in solid food per day for good growth. 10% - 20% in kitten milk per day for infants. Once your wildcat has got to 4 months they should be ready to eat quail and larger whole prey. You can give this to them gradually by cutting them in half with a butcher’s knife and serving in parts. Be careful not to leave uneaten food lying around for too long as the bacteria grows at room temperature and you do not want a sick baby wildcat. By the time they have got to 4 months of age you really do not need to give them any bottles but can continue to do so for bonding purposes. ALWAYS sterilise bottles until 4 months old.
 
Adult Diet
 
You can really mix it up to make it interesting for your serval or caracal cat. You can tie food on string to the roof of their enclsoures so they have to find a way up to it, you can hide it inside cardboard boxes or up a tree! They enjoy 1 quail and 5 day old chicks in the morning 0800 hours, then they have around 500grams/ 1.1lbs of meat at night for dinner at 2000 hours. You really want to stick to around 3 – 5% of their bodyweight in meat per day depending on their metabolism.
 
A pregnant serval, caracal, bobcat or lynx should be allowed at least 2 – 3 times the amount they would normally eat on a daily basis. They will need it for the growth and feeding of the kittens after birth. We always continue to feed our servals this amount for 3 months after the birth of their kittens even though the kittens are hand-reared by us from 3 weeks of age for socialisation purposes. This helps to bring mum back to perfect condition. A “working” serval male will also require a good diet to keep his energy levels high. Servals, caracals, bobcats and lynx do become lazy if overfed, so try and keep them in a nice lean condition.
 
This is copyright and watermarked. You may contact us for a copy of this table for personal use.

​Which milk do I feed my wildcat kitten/ cub?
 
You can buy the milk required for healthy Serval, Caracal, Bobcat, Lynx and Savannah Kittens.
 
Zoo Logic Milk Matrix 33/40
from £58.95 - £99.50
BUY HERE
A milk replacer and nutritional supplement fortified with vitamins and minerals to be used in feeding wild and exotic non-domestic animals such as Squirrels, Rabbits, Opossum, Wolves, Lions, Tigers, Pumas, Servals, Caracals, Binturongs and all Rodents. Part of an integrated system designed to let you virtually match any mammal’s milk.
 
Mixing Directions:
Reconstituting milk replacers with water is most accurately accomplished by weighing the individual components. If weighing is not possible, use the following volume measurements to reconstitute Milk Matrix 33/40 powder to the indicated concentrations:
 
A volume is a measurement such as a teaspoon, tablespoon, cup, etc. Suggested powder:water mixing ratios for various species:
1:1 Rabbit. Most Rodents
1:1.5 Squirrel, Opossum
1:2 Serval, Caracal, Lion, Tiger, Puma, Wolf
1:3 Binturong
 
Milk Matrix 33/40
 
Weights determined by scooping powder from the container and leveling. These values are only guidelines and can vary 5-10% due to variation in production.
 
Milk Replacer: Milk Matrix 33/40 may be used alone or blended with other products in the Matrix family to formulate a milk replacer with nutrient levels that closely match a species’ natural milk.
As a general rule, liquid or reconstituted milk replacer should be fed at a rate of 10% to 20% of the bodyweight daily or as tolerated and required for steady growth and proper stool condition. Divide the total daily amount into 6 to 12 feedings per day, depending on age, condition, species and staffing.
Reconstituted milk replacers should be refrigerated and used within 24 hours. Feed at room or body temperature depending on size and condition of animal.
 
Weaning Food Supplement: Because of its highly digestible milk nutrients, the formula used during suckling is an excellent supplement during weaning as a transition from milk to solid food. Add to the diet at the rate of one teaspoon of powder per 10 lbs. of bodyweight.
 
Calorie Content (calculated)
The calorie content (ME) is 740 kcal/kg or 11.1kcal/tbs when powder is reconstituted 1:2.
Unblended product: Refrigerate after opening. Discard if unused after three months.
 
Blended powder: Refrigerate for up to three months.
 
Note: To extend storage life of opened or blended powder, freeze in sealed container; discard after six months. Unopened product may be frozen to extend shelf life for six months beyond expiration date.
 
Guaranteed Analysis
 
Crude Protein, min. 33.0%
Crude Fat, min. 40.0%
Crude Fiber 0.0%
Moisture, max. 5.0%
 
Ingredients
 
Vegetable oil (preserved with BHA, BHT, propyl gallate and citric acid), dried skimmed milk, casein, egg yolk, L-arginine, DL-methionine, calcium carbonate precipitated, potassium phosphate monobasic, lecithin, dried corn syrup, calcium hydroxide, salt, monocalcium phosphate, sodium hydroxide, choline chloride, potassium chloride, silicon dioxide, magnesium carbonate, taurine, magnesium sulfate, vitamin A supplement, zinc sulfate, vitamin E supplement, ferrous sulfate, niacin supplement, copper sulfate, calcium pantothenate, vitamin B12 supplement, manganese sulfate, vitamin D3 supplement, folic acid, riboflavin, thiamine mononitrate, calcium iodate, pyridoxine hydrochloride.

6. Behaviour
​What if I get a wild cat and I am scared of it?
 
It is natural to be unsure about any animal which you haven’t met before. If you have bought a DWA cat then you must have it transported in a DEFRA-approved vehicle which means it’s suitable for transporting a DWA animal. It is worth getting your own transport approved for this. The travel tends to either completely upset an animal or they breeze through it not even noticing the travel. Give them a quiet room when they come home, but don’t leave them alone. Work with your animal right from the beginning. If your cat has been raised properly then it should be well-socialised and outgoing. Some cats can be shy and will take a few days to come round – but not longer. If they are still shy by day 3 then you will need to contact your breeder for advice.
 
If you have not owned a hybrid of these animals, it would be worth doing so before taking on a wild cat. In all honesty, an F2 will only give you a slight indication of the temperament of the wild animal in their ancestry.  By F2 there is likely to be around 25% wild genetics (2nd generation) from the wild cat, which is, in wild cat terms, huge dilution. The best thing you can do before making the decision is to get experience. Hopefully you will have taken a long time to consider the DWA cat you have purchased and worked so hard for your licence for. DWA ownership is not for those who are out at work all day as they need regular interaction come rain or shine. If you have a DWA cat and decide that it really isn’t for you after trying your best then it is always likely that the breeder will take the cat back (no refund) and you should always ask them in the first instance should you decide to part with the animal.
 
We are currently going through a long process of setting up a non-profit charity in the UK to help with rescue/ rehoming of DWA cats only as more of them come into ownership in the UK and many often sold to un-licensed or unsuitable homes. Should you decide not to speak with the breeder for personal reasons then please contact us for advice.
 
Are most wild cats like yours in the videos? Can I feed them from my hands? Aren’t they aggressive?
 
I wish I could say they were. Every cat has their own individual temperament but you need to allow enough time when every cat you receive is new to have them imprint on you. Here at Stylisticat, I am the main carer. I am here almost 24/7 and spend an extensive amount of time with the cats to ensure that they know who is the most trusted person they can rely on. It has been often asked how I have molded them to be so loving when other struggle to get them to come when called or to pet their DWA cats. Some are flabbergasted that I have a serval cuddling on my knee, cleaning my face. It has not come easily and I have had to work so hard for the trust and love that I am given. I always say to people that you reap what you sow. My cats are all affectionate on their terms. The larger wild cats we have here will hiss at visitors who approach the enclosure. Once they get to know them a bit better they will rub themselves along the fence to try and scent the person and show affection. Always be persistent with animals, similar to small children. Do not reward naughty behaviour but do not ignore it either. When wild cats are small they play with their mouths. You may have to wear gloves initially until the training period is over and you and your cat have a behavioural understanding where possible. Some cats do not ever become ‘safe’ to work with, particularly the adults that are rehomed. Bear that in mind. Even my most loving cats can bite or scratch when they want/ do not want something and it’s certainly not just your average nip of the skin. You may get puncture wounds in your skin through play. This can be difficult to get used to initially and is not enjoyable but always have a toy to hand so that you can divert attention and show praise for playing with toys and not human skin. I would never advise playing with any DWA cat of a larger size such as lions or tigers. There is a great difference for example in the way that I play with Servals than the way I play with caracals! A lot goes on behind the scenes in any DWA Licensed keeper where there are a number of cats – great and not-so-great things. It’s only natural. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
Do I have to hand rear the serval?
                 
We will always make sure the servals are still feeding from bottles even though they eat meat by the time they leave. When we deliver your serval kitten to you, you will be shown how to feed your serval with a bottle and also how much meat to feed per serving. You will be required to obtain a few items before we deliver your serval OR you can select the option to have a full delivery package with all the you are required to have for your kitten. The hand rearing for us is essential to your bonding process and we recommend everyone in your household does this whom the cat requires to have a bond with.
 
When they are naughty, how do I correct their behaviour?
You must sound a loud noise if they bite or nip you as a kitten. They must learn that this is not an acceptable interaction with a human. In order to encourage positive behaviour, you can always have a toy in your hand if playing – NEVER play with hands only, this encourages play but the wrong kind and when you touch the cat for a non-play purposes, they may bite you thinking that you are playing. This is not the kind of behaviour you want to encourage. Never smack your wildcat. The larger the cat the more likely it is that you should have safety methods for emergencies in place. These can include fire extinguishers and very powerful hoses. If you have a difficult adult cat, you can use these as a method of protection in the instance that you have a difficult cat that is not backing down.
 
Sometimes wildcats need an effective time-out session and that is when they get so super excited that they become completely hyper and over-stimulated. They need to be put into a small room to calm down until they are ready to come out and behave again. This is effective at calming an over-stimulated cat down.
 
Many people will crate train kittens so that they can be safe while the owners are away from home. This is a good method of protection for the kittens and great for safety/ licence purposes.
 
What do you mean train them with your voice?
 
They need to learn when they are being rewarded or if they are doing something undesirable. You need to ensure that you adjust the tone of your voice accordingly and show affection with your hands when you are rewarding them. You can give them a chick in reward and if they are showing undesirable behaviour, you need to raise your voice or make a loud noise to warn them as other species do in the wild.
 
Bonding for life
 
Your baby needs to know you are the number one thing in their life. This is why it’s important to help them realise this bond from day one. It will come, but the older the cat, the earlier the generation, the harder they are to ‘break’. All our cats are completely socialized so we don’t have any concerns in terms of willingness to play or come and greet you, however if you have a wild cat, the bonding process is more difficult and you will need to work hard with them alongside being very patient. Your visitors need to know how to respect and care for the animals and also if you are on holiday, you might want to get someone to come to your home, rather than them going to the cattery to reduce the stress on them. Patience, playtime and basic care are the start of the bonding process. Talk to your cat and A LOT. Let them recognize your voice and feel the comfort from it. They will learn to love you.
 
Do they mix well with other cats or pets?
Servals mix well with other animals but the other wildcats need a lot more supervision. This is purely down to the robustness of the other wild cats. Servals are powerful in their strike but they are quite fragile in comparison to a caracal and would be unlikely to win in a battle with a caracal. Caracals are extremely dominant whether that comes to food, blankets or even water bowls! They often ingest blankets to prevent other cats from being able to lie on them. They are extremely loving cats in any case, and adore a cuddle but can be quick to change and may bite if they feel you are overpowering them. You need to spend a lot of time with the cats to make sure you realise what different behaviour they are displaying means. You need to speak to them and train them with your voice. Don’t just let them loose and expect everything to be great. It can be! But it doesn’t always work out like that. You need to remember that any animal is an intruder in an already formed household. The pack needs to restructure and build again. This takes time. Be very encouraging and calm. If they hiss and spit, alongside puffing up just speak calmly and let them know it’s okay. Never give them into trouble or shout as it only heightens the anxiety and makes a bad atmosphere within the situation.

It is normal for a caracal to attack smaller cats such as domestics. They see them as prey and hunt them in the wild. It's their natural instinct. I would never recommend leaving a caracal alone with a smaller cat.
 
You want to ensure you have a really close bond with your serval, caracal, bobcat or lynx.
This is why you introduce all methods such as quarantine for the first two weeks, harnesses for safety, bottle feeding and behavior training.
 
The bottle feeding and bonding process should be very well underway before you introduce your wildcat to another friend. Once you feel very connected and have exchanged blankets back and forth between your current cats and new cat for the second week, you are ready to allow them to meet.

Introduction to dogs and other pets
 
Always ensure that your cat has somewhere high to get away from the other pets. If you find that the dog is very aggressive through a controlled introduction such as through a glass door or through a baby gate, then make sure they are on the lead so you can be in control of the situation. Never panic if they start to fight. Try to diffuse the situation quickly and calmly.  You will be surprised how quick they will get used to each other. It does take time and patience.
 
7. Harness Training 
It’s important to harness train a serval or caracal if you are in the UK because if you have a fire emergency and no access to transport boxes readily, then you can evacuate quickly and securely with a harness. Also, if you have to go to the vets then the cat can be examined but controlled at the same time through a harness. They are used to harnesses by the time they leave us. They need to have it removed at night time for sleeping or when they are not being supervised to prevent chocking or injury. When you take your wildcat to his new enclosure for the first time, it is advisable to have a lead and a harness on the cat to prevent them from getting a fright then shooting away and hurting themselves on the sides of the enclosure. I would always try to make them feel that when they have their harness on, it’s an enjoyable experience. The harnesses which we provide and manufacture are made from cotton and have Velcro along with a double clip to prevent escape. Harnesses are available from £20 up to any amount you wish with the option of real diamonds to be affixed onto the hand-crafted collar.
 
8. Buying a wildcat 
There are loads for sale overseas – how do I import one?
 
Any animal imported may be covered by CITES Licences you can contact CITES here.
Any animal which is covered under a DWA licence i.e. a full wild animal or F1 hybrid cannot travel under the Pet Passport Scheme into the UK.
You will be required to obtain an Import Licence from APHA/ DEFRA - Go to DEFRA.
You will be required to quarantine the animal for 4 months in England and 3 months in Scotland within a DEFRA-approved quarantine facility. The facility will have a quarantine licence and must also obtain a DWA to accept your animal.
PLEASE NOTE: We do have a DEFRA Quarantine Licence and so can help with your quarantine process. Contact us to discuss.
 
Buying a cat from overseas cannot be released to you until it is at least 6 months old in the UK. This is beyond the bonding window and you may find that you cannot even get near the cat for the rest of it’s life.
 
Buying from the UK means doing a lot of research. Unfortunately, it’s not a big market and therefore feedback can be few and far between. Finding a reputable breeder is very tough. There are only a handful of successful private wildcat breeders in the UK. Be sure to visit and check for anything that looks like a kitten farm. Ask to see all enclosures and check if they are clean and tidy. Check if the acts look healthy and happy. If something doesn’t feel right then walk away. A breeder should be on hand for advice if you should ever need it and be sure to ask loads of questions about lineage and where the parents came from. Always make sure you look on their Facebook pages and websites for their last litters from the parents. If they are breeding the Queen every 3 months then they are over-breeding and they are not interested in the cat’s wellbeing, only the profit. There are known breeders churning out wildcats in the UK and this only develops ill kittens and depressed mothers since their kittens are repeatedly removed for hand-rearing. Kittens from kitty mills are often cheap and easily available but cost more or die in the long run.

9. Bringing your Wildcat or Hybrid Home and Importation

The most exciting part after you have chosen your baby wildcat or hybrid kitten is the part where you bring them home.

We recommend using IATA approved carrier boxes because they are very robust and most importantly secure. You can use a soft carrier if you are travelling on a plane however we recommend you use one with the least mesh to ensure that you can keep an eye on the meshed window during the flight to prevent escape. The beauty of soft carriers is that they can be squeezed or moved slightly to allow for different seats in the aircraft. Many airlines will not allow you to put the animal anywhere apart from securely under the seat during the duration of the flight. Some may allow you to sit the box on your knee during the flight to comfort your kitten. More on this in the flying section below.
 
We recommend Vet Bedding as it is highly absorbent and is easy to wash. IT also dries very quickly. Keep an eye on the water supply during travel because if it spills on the vet bed then it will absorb it and it won’t be available for your cat to lap up through the journey, which other beds may allow for.
 
If you can, get a big enough box that you can put in a litter tray and a bed, along with two bowls on the door. You can buy special bowls that have clips on the rear for carriers. This way you can provide wet or dry and some water. I would always recommend wet food for the flight because dry food will dehydrate the cat if they don’t feel like drinking. Do not put the bowls too close together because if the water spills slightly then it will go onto the food next to it. Space them as far apart as possible.
 
You can use natural medication such as Zylkene to calm your kitten for the flight, rail, air or boat journey. ALWAYS start one week before the trip to allow it to work. Always leave the cat carrier around from at least 2 weeks before if possible so that it smells like them and they feel comfortable with going inside it. You can then use the blanket for the travel for comfort.
 
Plan well in advance with any agencies involved in the travel of your kitten.
For UK travel, there are no travel requirements from us. Your kitten will be vaccinated twice, wormed three times and treated with advocate for fleas and any other potential parasites such as ear mites or fleas. Bringing in to the UK can be a lot more complicated due to our strict requirements. Any Wild Cat or F1 generation hybrid will require 3 months quarantine in Scotland and 4 months in England at a Dangerous Wild Animal licensed facility. Any F2 – F5 will require CITES which is a system of import and export permits to control the movement of the species.
 
For travelling abroad, your kitten will be delivered by us personally so you can trust we are experienced with the multiple agencies involved such as APHA, DEFRA, USDA, CFIA and other CITES departments.
 
For those overseas, we apply for a CITES permit [export] and after we receive this within 30 days, you need to apply for an import permit with the Fish and Wildlife Department in your country. Please beware of that the USA can take up to 4 months to process an Import and Export. The whole CITES process can take up to 6 months for UK to USA – occasionally 9 months. You have to be dedicated to the kitten of your choice and also be prepared to put in extra time to bond with it when it finally arrives. We request if you have a CITES kitten from us that you take at least 2 weeks off work to ensure they have your full attention when they arrive. We want our kittens to live happy, safe and fulfilled lifes so we have to look ahead to their arrival in their new homes before they have arrived. This is important even more so for wild cats. It’s a good point here to remind you that a wild cat may never bond with a human they have just met after being 6 months old.
 
The other qualifiers are usually a rabies vaccination at 12 weeks old, then at least 21 days wait before travel, a passport issued by a qualified vet, recorded parasite treatment, a rabies blood test may be required for some countries, a skin test to check for ringworm may be required and occasionally countries may place additional requirements on proof of lineage.
 
If you are buying from us then we know all about which requirements are in force for your country and can work quickly and efficiently to get these documents in place. Be very careful about importing or exporting a kitten without the correct documents, this can result in confiscation of the animal, death of the animal, a monetary fine and worst of all it puts the animal at risk.
 
So, after all that work, your animal is home...
 
You are required to take your kitten to your own Veterinary Surgeon within 48 hours of leaving our premises. The purpose of this visit is to ensure you and your vet are satisfied that the kitten is in perfect health; the kitten is fit for purpose i.e. breeding and there are no visible genetic faults.
 
Your new baby kitten will take a few days to come round and feel back to their usual self. They have been used to litter mates jumping on them, playing at all hours of the night and best of all – Mummy! Now with no friends, no mum and being taken to a strange place you new baby will be feeling a bit scared and sorry for itself. Try to put them in a room on their own such as a utility room. Ensure you remove all chemicals and close toilet lids if you decide to place them in their for two weeks. Coax them out, if hiding, with their new feather stick (they all love these) and ball tube toys are also great. We recommend you buy a scratch post, as this is what they are used to playing on and will bring some home familiarities.
 
Your kitten may exhibit stress signs through a funny tummy, sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes and/ or constipation with all the stress of coming to their new home and could have diarrhea for the first week. This should settle down by the first week. As we’ve said above – your cat has been fully tested for everything so if there are any runny bottoms then it will be down to the move or if you have changed their diet. Please ensure you have fresh water available at all times for your new kitten and change twice daily.
 
Once you get your kitten home try and give them some time alone. A couple of days of the various visits to their room will help your kitten realize that everything it okay and there is nothing to be scared of. Once the kitten is settled with you and demonstrates a happiness to see you with purrs, puffy tail and back, along with possibly chatting to you, they are ready to explore the rest of the house. DO keep an eye on them on stairs as they are still babies. Try not to move the litter tray and DO introduce a few more if you have a large house. This may result in confusion and accidents. Your kitten is used to: Wood Litter Pellets.
 
Always introduce other pets to your kitten gradually and ALWAYS supervise. It is natural for your kitten to puff up and growl or spit to show they are defending themselves and your pet may do this also. Try not to intervene heavily and keep a calm, encourage voice telling them it is okay. It CAN take a few MONTHS for your kitten to be fully accepted in a house with pets already there. Animals do have a hierarchy system and is a natural process for them to let each other know where they belong in that system! Try to be confident and calm as animals do feed off our actions and energy.
 
Try and baby-proof your home. They will knock of your favourite ornaments by accident when whizzing around playing, may disappear behind the fridge, squeeze out a window, fall down the toilet (and possibly drown!), and eat a plant or flowers, which may be poisonous to cats. Also select good toys, which do not have chokable items, which could come loose. Please note – we can supply you with cat food, litter, bedding and toys at discounted prices so do get in touch if you require anything. Most breeders call it Savannah or wildcat-Proofing. You have to lock your medicine cupboard, razors in a sharp box and in a lot of cases you are better to have a fridge latch too. One of our F2’s managed to open our freezer door and steal some “Fish Fingers” out of the second drawer, inside a cardboard box. You can’t really be angry at their intelligence, they knew that’s where the food was. They watched us getting food from there and cooking it. They have often opened the oven door to check for any leftovers so it’s important to always be one step ahead of your Savannah cat. Don’t leave anything, anywhere that could be dangerous. You MUST find their intelligence fascinating otherwise it may not be the cat for you.
 
Birth to 4 weeks old
 
Kittens can wean from 4 weeks old but we like them to stay with their mothers until at least 6 weeks old when they are fully weaned. Our new cattery buildings have hospital grade flooring in each room, which means each cat has a full-sized single bedroom to have privacy and give birth in – and I can sleep on the floor beside them. The cattery has music on through out the day and then they get a DVD on a bedtime in the evening. This helps to acclimatize them to all the usual sounds. The daytime is so busy vacuuming and cleaning that they are used to all household noises before they have even progressed to the kitten room. We watch each of the rooms on CCTV, which is linked, to our mobile phones and a large 50” CCTV screen central in our kitchen with all cameras featured on it so they are supervised at all times. Their enclosures also have CCTV, which means there is no place unseen in our cattery. It means then that they are not moved out of their home into a different zone to have their babies. There are 4 of us that work on the cattery and enclosures to maintain an excellent level of hygiene and an excellent level of interaction with all our animals.
 
5 weeks old till leaving day

Once the babies are weaned, we bring them into the kitten room and they enjoy their integration into family life. Your baby will be used to typical things in our house such as Disney Junior, Xbox Car racing and Just Dance, along with a mixture of Country, Dance, Drum and Bass, Dubstep, Pop and Rock/ Metal Music.
 
They will be used to playing with toy cars, craft and anything else a 7-year-old would take into the kitten room with him! We also watch some movies with the surround sound on, which can be funny to watch them adapting to. They are placed beside dinosaurs as part of an attack on an army of dragon warriors or given an important role in choosing colour of paint for a picture although sometimes our Son does disagree with their choice of pink for his pictures!
 
These souls can breathe family life and we aim for them to be just as important in their furrever home. This is why selecting a breeder is crucial when choosing your wildcat. If all they have learned through their short time with the breeder is that humans are there to feed them and change their litter tray, then they will not want to be around them. They will not want to be around you and you will need to work hard to win them round.
 
First few days
 
From Stylisticat, your cat will have been brought up in a very social environment with children. Your kitten should not be nervous after it's first few days in it’s new home with you. Remember that our kittens are full wild or hybrid cats and can be picky with who they decide to bond with. They usually form a parent/child type bond with one person but that is not to say that your kitten will not be approachable by anyone else. Encourage visitors to talk to your cat and pet them but do not force people or children on your kitten as it may deter them from people in future. Gradual is a key word we use for just about everything as cat breeders. Introduce them gradually to both you and your new home.
 
Don’t feed normal portions. Offer smaller amounts and more regularly. This helps to encourage your kitten to eat as the food is fresh each time and the amount is not overwhelming. Also, it helps to let them know that you are there to care.
 
What to feed and when
 
Your kitten would be used to being fed 4 times a day.
These times are:

7am, 12pm, 5pm and 9pm.
 
We feed Kiezebrink and whole prey, which is a complete diet along with some other supplements. With wildcats, you can add some Taurine or Calcium as they can require higher doses than domestic cats. You can feed raw food or any other kitten food as long as it is a good quality food. We do not force you to feed raw but we do ask that you feed grain-free food because it is much better for them. We do not feed wild cats biscuits or kibble. They have a full meat/ prey diet only.

10. Litter trays and toileting
 
Wild cats usually prefer open top trays or 25 litre tubs. Wood pellet litter is usually best although for smaller kittens chick feed can be better in case they eat parts of it. Our hybrid cats prefer hooded trays but they must be very clean. One toilet break can mean the whole tray is deemed unusable – so grab a few before your baby comes home. Make sure you have a few about the house to ensure the cat knows where it is. Put your new cat in the litter tray several times a day to encourage them to use it and remind them where it is.
 
Some wildcats will tend to hose spray all their enclosure to fully claim it and this is normal behaviour. You need to ensure that you keep up to date with sanitary methods and procedures. This prevents rust on the metal or complete deterioration on the wooden beams. The panels often need replaced if wooden due to deterioration and that is why I always recommend metal for enclosures. Our kittens are litter trained before they leave in open top trays.
 
11. Breeding Practice
 
As a general rule – we do not allow our female cats to go to breeders who will breed from them any more than 3 times in 2 years. Failure to follow this rule will result in legal action to take our cat back. We not believe accidents happen in responsible breeders premises where queens and studs are kept separate. If you have a cattery then this MUST be heated (through heat pads or other source), ventilated and have outdoor access available to the cat at all times during the day. Any less than 25m2 of outdoor space is unacceptable and we may ask you for proof of outdoor space before selling you a kitten. In special cases, we may make an exception.
 
12.Good Suppliers
 
Suppliers we recommend are:-
Zooplus
PetPlanet.co.uk
Cattreeking.co.uk
McClaw cat wheels
B & M Stores Cat Litter and toys

13. Calling for advice
 
You can call us for absolutely anything at all! When you buy a kitten from us you get a 24 hour number for advice.

14. Choosing a vet
 
Ensure that your vet is comfortable treating a wildcat or hybrid. Most vets are okay with it but some of them can be uncomfortable as it is not the normal protocol and they don’t want to make a mistake, which could cost them their career. Power is knowledge so you don’t need to fear taking them to the vet – help your vet understand their needs.

15. Vaccinations and Healthcare
  

• Vaccinations
   
  You kitten is vaccinated twice before it leaves unless you have them young for bonding as wild cats. Afterwards, we recommend vaccinations every 18 months. Every 12 months is over-vaccinating, although your vet will recommend it.

 

• Worming
   
  We recommend always using Advocate Spot On. If you can, import it to your country, as it’s very effective against just about every parasite.

 

• Fleas
   
  Do not use any Bob Martin product as they can be dangerous and are cheap for a reason. You can use Frontline or Advocate spot on.

 

• Injuries
   
  If your cat is injured or suffering in any way then take them to the vet. Do not rely on social media for a response. Take them to the vet immediately, but please do let us know.

 

• Emergencies
   
  It is advisable to ensure that you don’t use ketamine in emergency surgeries as it is known cause issues or even death in wild cats or hybrids., however, we have used this in spay/neuter and also some emergency surgeries and had no problems with it on our hybrid cats. It is believed any complications associated with ketamine and hybrid cats could be linked to HCM because of the way it alters blood pressure and heart rates. There is no proof on this subject however hearsay causes us to be cautious and advise caution in any case. The main issue on our part is that there is no reversal agent and it can alter behaviour permanently. We no longer use it for this very reason.

 
16.    Our Anaesthesia/ Veterinary Care Requirements
 
The buyer has to agree that the cat will receive NO Ketamine under any circumstances and make their VS aware of this at the first appointment where the kittens record is made.
 
The buyer also has to agree to treat the kitten with Advocate at 5 week intervals, deworm with Panacur or similar quality every 3 months and take the kitten for a health check at 6 months of age, 1-year-old then annually for a checkup.
 
The buyer has to agree to not use Bob Martin products on the kitten.
 
If the buyer is unable to afford health care for the animal then they would contact Stylisticat to make them aware of the known issue and offer the animal back to the Seller for free.
 
Do not use Dexdomitor in cats with cardiovascular disease, respiratory disorders, liver or kidney diseases, or in conditions of shock, severe debilitation, or stress due to extreme heat, cold or fatigue. Dexdomitor should not be administered in the presence of pre-existing hypotension, hypoxia, or bradycardia. As with all α2-adrenoceptor agonists, the potential for isolated cases of hypersensitivity, including paradoxical response (excitation), exists with Dexdomitor. The use of Dexdomitor as a pre-anaesthetic in dogs and cats significantly reduces the amount of induction and maintenance anaesthetic requirements. Careful patient monitoring is necessary to avoid anaesthetic overdose. Arrhythmias, bradycardia, apnea, emesis, convulsions, hyper salivation may occur with Dexdomitor use. We prefer you avoid Domitor where possible in case there is an undiagnosed heart condition and this drug puts your cat’s life in jeopardy.
 
We ask that you refrain from the use of ketamine. Careful consideration should be taken with an Injectable anaesthesia drug called ketamine which is injected into the muscle.  This will result in about 30-60 minutes of complete unconsciousness with a gradual waking up that can take anywhere from 6 to 24 hours.  Ketamine is a dis-associative drug, which means that even if your cat were to feel pain they don't associate it with themselves, and it does also have some pain blocking effects as well. Ketamine does have some brief discomfort associated with its injection. Ketamine does have some cardiac effects, and can lower what is called the seizure threshold, so should only ever be used on young, healthy cats.  In addition, ketamine can potentially change a cat's personality, sometimes temporarily, sometimes permanently.  Once ketamine is in your cat's system, the vet cannot reverse it.  So, if there is a complication, such as not breathing during surgery, they cannot do anything until the ketamine starts to wear off. Your cat could die due to ketamine being in their system.
 
There are two different types of gas anaesthesia that are used in cats called Sevoflurane and Isoflurane.
 
Sevoflurane is a very fast acting gas anaesthesia which will result in a quick loss of consciousness and a quick return to consciousness.  However, it is extremely pricey.
 
Isoflurane takes just a little longer to both lose consciousness and regain consciousness, but it is a little more cost effective.  Therefore, usually the vet will use sevoflurane to induce anaesthesia and then switch to isoflurane to maintain anaesthesia during the procedure.  Both gasses are very commonly used in human medicine.  The advantage of gas anaesthesia is that they maintain control of the depth of the anaesthesia, and can deepen it or lighten it as needed during a procedure.  If there is a complication, they can wake up the cat almost immediately if it is safe to do so.  While there is no 100% safe anaesthesia, gas anaesthesia has the fewest risks associated with it.

17. Insurance
 
It is definitely worth insuring your kitten or cat. Certain companies will only cover you for short term or long term illnesses but be certain to write down what you need cover for and work out a budget. Many insurers won’t guarantee the purchase price of a hybrid or wild cat and may only offer a small amount against the purchase price. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t insure them as vets bills can run into the thousands.

You will need to get public liability insurance for your wildcat and you will often be asked to lodge them with a copy of your licence.

18. TICA Registration
 
We will ensure that you receive the Green slip or breeder slip when you receive your cat or kitten. If you have chosen your own name then we guarantee it will be with you within 2 months of arrival if you are breeding your cat for hybrids. Otherwise our own pedigree.

19. Breeding and Code of Ethics
 
You would not be allowed to breed from this cat unless we have registered it, Stylisticat, on the active register with TICA. If your cat has been sold on the inactive register then it MUST be neutered or spayed by the time it is 5 months of age and certainly before we will transfer them into your name through TICA. Please see our TICA Voluntary Code of Ethics as to why we follow this rule.
 
We work extremely hard to develop an excellent breeding standard. We are inspected annually from a Veterinary Surgeon and the local council to receive our Cattery of Excellence by TICA and renew our Dangerous Wild Animal Licence, which is required to have Serval’s and F1’s.
 
If you are buying a DWA you MUST have suitable housing and provide us with a copy of your DWA before we will sell you one. We are required to keep a log of DWA sales by the local council as part of our licence.
 
We are certified as “Responsible Breeders” by The International Cat Association and have signed the Voluntary Code of Ethics.
 
We abide by these rules as follows:
 
1. We will remain in good standing of TICA and have a registered cattery.
2. We will breed discriminately and ensure we find appropriate homes who can provide a life-long commitment
 
Any cat sold as a pet or show will be sold under the following conditions:
 
a) We guarantee the cats in good health at the time of sale.
b) We urge the buyer to have the cat examined by his or her own vet.
c) We require the cat be neutered or spayed.
d) We have explained the dangers of the outdoors.
e) We have provided a written sales agreement.
f) We will only provide the TICA registration/ pedigree for the kitten ONLY AFTER we have received written confirmation from a licensed VS that the cat has been neutered or spayed.
g) We encourage you to contact us if you have questions and will respond in a timely manner.
h) We will not release a kitten, which hasn’t been inoculated twice against at least: Rhinotracheitis, panleukopenia and calicivirus.
 
20.Collection dates and UK/ International Delivery
a) Collection is 15 weeks for international and 12 weeks 3 days for UK, not earlier and the full balance is due on collection or prior.
b) We may keep your kitten longer if we feel it needs some extra time to ensure it is completely healthy and ready for departure!
c) International: Buyer is responsible for CITES Export fees of which the Seller will apply for the export permit. They are also responsible for their own import CITES certification application, which the Seller will assist with to complete.
d) Shipping and export costs are also the responsibility of the Buyer.
e) Shipping may be discounted if the Seller can deliver multiple kittens en-route.
f) Any cancellations made due to no fault of the Seller will not be claimable against the Seller but the travel company who is at fault this includes but is not limited to Airlines, Ferry Companies, Taxi Services, Car Hire Companies and Train Services.
g) The buyer agrees to import the cat legally to their country and to comply with all legislation in relation to their kitten/ cat. The Seller will not be held responsible for any seized cats due to legislation and no replacements or refunds will be given in any of these instances.
h) Exports to Western countries such as Japan require blood tests and quarantine. The buyer agrees to all costs in relation to this.
i) Russian exports require a feline skin test and agree to pay for this test.
j) The Buyer agrees to make special arrangements to have the correct travel crate and the correct size according to their airline. The buyer will check these details with their chosen airline to ensure they comply BEFORE collecting their kitten.

If you are buying internationally from us, you will likely be aware that kittens are hand-delivered or collected unless it is not legally possible, such as shipping cargo-only laws. We may have a number of stops required before your kitten will get to your destination and this can result in overnight stays in hotels. Your kitten has been well socialized in a home environment and therefore, the kitten should not be overly under stress when travelling with us directly. We prefer NOT to use a courier where other kittens or cats are in transit at the same time due to infection control and the responsibility of a number of cats to care for. You are welcome to request a direct-delivery with payment due before delivery can be scheduled. 

We will collect and return you to the airport free of charge if you are collection your kitten, with airports being Edinburgh or Glasgow (EDI or GLA). We recommend that you do not take wet food on transit internationally inside the cat carrier as it may make a lot of mess and grow bacteria with the changing temperatures. Biscuits are always advisable due to the shelf life of them being longer. Do not worry if your kitten does not eat on the travel. It is normal for them to refuse food when in transit. If the journey is long, then we always stopover in a hotel – even for an afternoon to allow the kitten to rest and replenish itself. Please note you cannot fly INTO the UK with a cat in the cabin or the hold. This means if you want to fly internally with a cat from Scotland to England it is not possible. You must fly OUT of the UK with your kitten and not connect within the UK.
 
If we must use cargo, then the kitten will have a water funnel attached to the front of the kennel to allow for replenishment of water. Biscuits will be taped to the top of the carrier in a secure package in case of emergency. We do not feed our kittens biscuits and so this may upset their tummy. The buyer is also responsible for checking with their local state wildlife department that the desired cat is legal within their area. We will NOT send a cat to an illegal state OR change any documentation to reflect that they are a different generation to reality. The  buyer should also check what they are required to have for the importation of the cat in terms of documentation.
 
21. Deposits / Pre-Birth Reservations

All deposits secure a Stylisticat Kitten in the order they are received. You will be made aware of the number on the waiting list in front of you before you decide to make a reservation. No-one can "skip the queue" via offering a higher deposit. This will not be acceptable. If the kitten can no longer be offered due to any unforeseen circumstances, the desired Sex/ Colour/ Type of kitten is not born in the litter then the deposit is fully transferable to another litter. If the Buyer changes their mind about waiting for a kitten or proceeding with the sale, then the Seller will not offer any refund. No cash refunds of deposits under any circumstances. The seller can revoke the contract at any point and refund the buyer any payments made.
 
22.Genetic Understanding (FOR BREEDERS ONLY)

The kitten would be sold on the basis that it will be mated ONLY to a cat with the following test results:
a.         Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency (PK DEF) = N/N Normal/Normal.
b.         Progressive Retinol Atrophy PRA & PRA-B = N/N Normal/ Normal.
c.         HCM = No known HCM in the lineage.
d.         Herpes Virus = There is no known herpes virus in either parent.
 
Under no circumstances will the kitten be mated to a carrier or affected cat of PK Def or PRA. As the breed develops throughout the years, there will be more tests available as science develops. It will be expected as part of this sale that the purchaser will endeavour to carry out any new tests on this kitten (and offspring if required) which could affect the health of the line. Being a breeder means that we all have a duty to test kittens before selling as breeders and before using them in our programme. If required, your kitten will have been tested for PRA and PK Def if their parent is a carrier. IF you have purchased a carrier for breeding then you will ensure that you abide by the statement above to ensure that the kittens are healthy. Buyer will also test offspring of the kittens through Langford's UK or UC Davis USA, or similar, before considering selling a kitten to someone for breeding. 
 
Buyer will under no circumstances sell a carrier kitten from this cat for breeding and if possible neuter/ spay carrier kittens before they leave. Buyer may keep a carrier from the litter to use in their own programme. Buyer will also assess the suitability of the purchaser to ensure that a suitable judgement can be made on the character of their Buyer to try and ensure that their contract will be abided by. Every effort to ensure that the health of the kittens are top priority in the breeding programme of the purchaser will be taken, no matter what cost to the Purchaser. We also recommend that you have an HCM Scan carried out by a cardiologist annually. We advise heavily against swab HCM tests because these are known to be very inaccurate at this stage of scientific development..

Other Notes:

You may want to consider an emergency plan for your cat should you fall ill and be unable to care for your animal. If you have purchased your wildcat from us then we are able to care for your cat within our quarantine facility. We will always take responsibility for our kittens after they have left us and if that means they need to come back, then we will receive them with open arms.

You will want to have your animal in your will in case of death. Wildcats can live well beyond 20 years and are a lifelong commitment. 

You can have your wildcat around your children at your own risk. You will need to train your children on how to act appropriately.

Do you declaw your cats?

NO. We will not sell you a cat if you plan to declaw either. It is cruel and inhumane. There are a number of arthritic cases in older servals because they cannot walk properly without their last toe joint. The declawing process involves removal of the bone/ first toe joint, not just the nail. Laser surgery does not reduce the pain or the healing process, it's just quicker surgery. This makes me feel phsyically sick and very upset. If anyone were to declaw one of my animals then I would take them to court to have the cat returned for animal cruelty. This is a HUGE no-no in our home. It is a strict part of our contract.

​From an honest breeder to another...

It is important to consider if a trade is really a smart or beneficial move for your programme given that you cannot see ahead into the future and guarantee any results. First of all, trade-­‐offs often cause friction between the breeders involved if both parties do not get the outcome from such a deal as they had expected or hoped for.  
 
In the first instance it works out well because the Seller has placed the kitten into a preferred home with someone they like or someone who has a nice programme to their taste. The buyer will often have traits or lines that the Seller doesn’t have and therefore it can seem like a great idea at the time. The buyer also feels more than happy to agree to the trade off because they get the kitten they wanted without much or any payment in exchange and they get to work with the cat/ lines of their choice.  At this point everything is going great and may stay that way should the outcome work out well.
 
More often now you will be offered an exchange on the next litter or a ‘kitten back’ deal either from the sold kitten or one of the buyers other cats. In this case, there are many things you need to consider before agreeing to such deals. I want to go over a few points here and will outline below:
 
A year or three passes and the kitten is now breeding age

1. What if the cat doesn’t have the desired sex of kitten outlined in the trade off?  

• Are you going to be happy to wait until the next litter in the hope that there will be a kitten which is what colour/ type/ holds attributes you were looking for and ALSO breeding quality
• Does the buyer have all the kittens adopted and keep the proceeds despite the fact you never got your end of the deal?
• Do you get the proceeds of the kitten sales to the amount your breeding cat was worth before the exchange if there is no kitten available in the first litter?  

 
You see now what happens is the original deal is often changed because now the buyer is at an advantage and the seller has now lost out on the kitten back they were hoping for. Often the conversation will contain phrases such as “oh but I thought that” “Oh I just assumed that” “Well can we do this instead”. IT would be natural for the seller to feel ‘short changed’ in this case and they start to resent the buyer, even though it was likely the sellers idea in the first place, I see this all the time. A situation may arise where the seller suddenly feels entitled to a higher generation kitten because they have waited so long for a kitten back if it has been years of waiting or they need to wait until the next litter. When they have placed a kitten with the buyer worth £3,000 or £6,000 and they are still waiting 3 years for a kitten back, the frustration arises that they should’ve waited and sold it in the first place, because the buyer is now benefitting from the breeding and the seller isn’t. This is natural human feelings but it’s preventing it from happening in the first place which is important. This is why if you did decide to sell on this route then it is important to have every entuality in your contract which means it’s written in black and white. Beware though that

even though you agree to a contract won’t stop the resentment feeling which is only natural, should things go wrong. What’s more important in your relationship?

2. What if the cat only had one and it’s the one you want?  

Did you stipulate that the kitten should be given to you from the first litter or was it just ‘a kitten back’? You leave yourself wide open to being taken advantage of should this issue arise. If you agree to a kitten back make sure you stipulate  the terms very clearly. Should it be from the first litter and if there is only one kitten should it be that one kitten that comes to you? If not, then perhaps by the third litter or it can be completely at your request when you decide, so the buyer must offer the kittens to you by first before anyone else?

3. What if the kittens aren’t breeding quality?  

So you sold them a lovely cat without actually exchanging funds but is there a get out clause if they aren’t breeder quality? I mean, did it say ‘a breeder quality kitten back’ or just a kitten back? Be absolutely clear on what you require in exchange for all the hard work you and your beautiful cats have done to produce this kitten. If the cats aren’t compatible or they just aren’t up to standard for   what your eye usually demands then can you say you would prefer to be paid instead?

4. Do you get to assist in the mating choice for your kitten back?
 
You might not want a mel carrier or you might need one! If they only have one which will give you the genes you want back then make sure that you agree what you are looking for beforehand and that way there is no confusion.Agree on certain studs or queens as part of the deal to ensure that you really do get the benefit out of the wait otherwise there would be no point in doing the exchange  in the first place, which brings me to my next point:

5. Do you agree to ‘pick of the litter’?  

IF you agree to ‘pick of the litter’ you are agreeing to the best out of a bunch. Just because there are 8 kittens it doesn’t mean that any of them are breeder quality but you have agreed to take the best of the bunch because it then concludes the deal. This then means that just to conclude the deal, there are substandard cats being injected back into the blood of your programme instead of really waiting for the ones that really work with your aims and objectives. There would be no point in doing a pick of the litter agreement unless you were absolutely confident on the pairing, but in this game there are no guarantees, it’s Russian roulette, it’s just your luck and some of us are lucky….some of us not so. Don’t just settle because it means that you finally conclude after 3 years waiting.

6. What if you discover a genetic fault in the line and they have already had kittens from the cat?

It doesn’t happen very often thankfully but occasionally things do crop up.. IF the buyer has bred your cat and sold the offspring you have your ‘kitten-­‐back’ and things are going great then there is a problem in the line you need to work together to achieve an eradication of this fault. Some things are normal and ‘just happen’ some things are part of growth and differ in the kittens, some things are genetic and need to be removed from the line. In this instance do they get   another cat as a replacement despite the fact that no money has changed hands and you already have your kitten back? Protect yourself. These things happen   but when there has been no money changing hands, you don’t want to be sued  for a replacement cat that was worth £6,000 when you weren’t even paid for it in the first place. People can change and sometimes things going wrong can change people’s attitudes and expectations.

7. What if the cat gets ill and dies before you get your kitten back?  

Occasionally a cat will get pyometra through no fault of the buyer or seller before the kitten is a year old. It would be up to the parties to agree what should be   done to prevent this and what expectations each party has. Some breeders may completely disagree on these terms and then the blame gets placed on the other party. The parties need to agree if a cat has X heat cycles then it will be bred but only by X months old or by X cat in the cattery. This means that if anything should happen to the cat through lack of breeding before one year old then the onus is on the seller to decide if they want to give the buyer another kitten or close the deal off. This would mean that there would be no kitten due back to the Seller for the original deal. If the cat gets ill from something else or isn’t fertile then there needs to be an agreement on what outcome or procedure would be followed to prevent argument or disagreement. Make it clear.

8. What if now is not the right time for your kitten back?  

Is there a time limit? The buyer may not want to feel like they ‘owe you’ something indefinitely and might ask respectfully that you choose from the litter they have available. I would always make it clear that there is no specific timeline on this and it is up to you when you decide for your kitten back or what choice you make for your programme. You are the one who has bred this kitten by your own standards to get it to this point and so therefore it is up to you to choose which one you would like back. Likewise though, I would always ensure you place a number on this to respect the buyers cattery such as ‘by the X litter but only if there has been a choice of at least X males/females in the total amount of kittens which have been offered back’. Don’t limit yourself to 3rd litter – what if it’s all boys and you wanted a girl? By their rights they wouldn’t need to give you one back.
 
Think you’ve covered everything? Think again. Think of every eventuality – these points are just some of the things to consider in a kitten back contract.
 
This is exactly the reason why we don’t do them. It’s not worth the hassle.

Contents

1. Bringing your Savannah Home
2. First few days
3. What to feed and when
4. Litter trays and toileting
5. Introduction to other cats
6. Introduction to dogs and other pets
7. Good Suppliers
8. Calling for advice
9. Choosing a vet
10. Vaccinations and Healthcare
    1. Vaccinations
    2. Worming
    3. Fleas
    4. Injuries
    5. Emergencies
11. Insurance
12. TICA Registration
13. Bonding for life
14. Breeding and Code of Ethics
15. Enclosure
    1. Design
    2. Enrichment
    3. Suppliers

 

1. Bringing your Wildcat or Hybrid Home
   

 
The most exciting part after you have chosen your baby wildcat or hybrid kitten is the part where you bring them home.
 
We recommend using IATA approved carrier boxes because they are very robust and most importantly secure. You can use a soft carrier if you are travelling on a plane however we recommend you use one with the least mesh to ensure that you can keep an eye on the meshed window during the flight to prevent escape. The beauty of soft carriers is that they can be squeezed or moved slightly to allow for different seats in the aircraft. Many airlines will not allow you to put the animal anywhere apart from securely under the seat during the duration of the flight. Some may allow you to sit the box on your knee during the flight to comfort your kitten. More on this in the flying section below.
 
We recommend Vet Bedding as it is highly absorbent and is easy to wash. IT also dries very quickly. Keep an eye on the water supply during travel because if it spills on the vet bed then it will absorb it and it won’t be available for your cat to lap up through the journey, which other beds may allow for.
 
If you can, get a big enough box that you can put in a litter tray and a bed, along with two bowls on the door. You can buy special bowls that have clips on the rear for carriers. This way you can provide wet or dry and some water. I would always recommend wet food for the flight because dry food will dehydrate the cat if they don’t feel like drinking. Do not put the bowls too close together because if the water spills slightly then it will go onto the food next to it. Space them as far apart as possible.
 
You can use natural medication such as Zylkene to calm your kitten for the flight, rail, air or boat journey. ALWAYS start one week before the trip to allow it to work. Always leave the cat carrier around from at least 2 weeks before if possible so that it smells like them and they feel comfortable with going inside it. You can then use the blanket for the travel for comfort.
 
Plan well in advance with any agencies involved in the travel of your kitten.
For UK travel, there are no travel requirements from us. Your kitten will be vaccinated twice, wormed three times and treated with advocate for fleas and any other potential parasites such as ear mites or fleas. Bringing in to the UK can be a lot more complicated due to our strict requirements. Any Wild Cat or F1 generation hybrid will require 3 months quarantine in Scotland and 4 months in England at a Dangerous Wild Animal licensed facility. Any F2 – F5 will require CITES which is a system of import and export permits to control the movement of the species.
 
For travelling abroad, your kitten will be delivered by us personally so you can trust we are experienced with the multiple agencies involved such as APHA, DEFRA, USDA, CFIA and other CITES departments.
 
For those overseas, we apply for a CITES permit [export] and after we receive this within 30 days, you need to apply for an import permit with the Fish and Wildlife Department in your country. Please beware of that the USA can take up to 4 months to process an Import and Export. The whole CITES process can take up to 6 months for UK to USA – occasionally 9 months. You have to be dedicated to the kitten of your choice and also be prepared to put in extra time to bond with it when it finally arrives. We request if you have a CITES kitten from us that you take at least 2 weeks off work to ensure they have your full attention when they arrive. We want our kittens to live happy, safe and fulfilled lifes so we have to look ahead to their arrival in their new homes before they have arrived. This is important even more so for wild cats. It’s a good point here to remind you that a wild cat may never bond with a human they have just met after being 6 months old.
 
The other qualifiers are usually a rabies vaccination at 12 weeks old, then at least 21 days wait before travel, a passport issued by a qualified vet, recorded parasite treatment, a rabies blood test may be required for some countries, a skin test to check for ringworm may be required and occasionally countries may place additional requirements on proof of lineage.
 
If you are buying from us then we know all about which requirements are in force for your country and can work quickly and efficiently to get these documents in place. Be very careful about importing or exporting a kitten without the correct documents, this can result in confiscation of the animal, death of the animal, a monetary fine and worst of all it puts the animal at risk.
 
So, after all that work, your animal is home...
 
You are required to take your kitten to your own Veterinary Surgeon within 48 hours of leaving our premises. The purpose of this visit is to ensure you and your vet are satisfied that the kitten is in perfect health; the kitten is fit for purpose i.e. breeding and there are no visible genetic faults.
 
Your new baby kitten will take a few days to come round and feel back to their usual self. They have been used to litter mates jumping on them, playing at all hours of the night and best of all – Mummy! Now with no friends, no mum and being taken to a strange place you new baby will be feeling a bit scared and sorry for itself. Try to put them in a room on their own such as a utility room. Ensure you remove all chemicals and close toilet lids if you decide to place them in their for two weeks. Coax them out, if hiding, with their new feather stick (they all love these) and ball tube toys are also great. We recommend you buy a scratch post, as this is what they are used to playing on and will bring some home familiarities.
 
Your kitten may exhibit stress signs through a funny tummy, sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes and/ or constipation with all the stress of coming to their new home and could have diarrhea for the first week. This should settle down by the first week. As we’ve said above – your cat has been fully tested for everything so if there are any runny bottoms then it will be down to the move or if you have changed their diet. Please ensure you have fresh water available at all times for your new kitten and change twice daily.
 
Once you get your kitten home try and give them some time alone. A couple of days of the various visits to their room will help your kitten realize that everything it okay and there is nothing to be scared of. Once the kitten is settled with you and demonstrates a happiness to see you with purrs, puffy tail and back, along with possibly chatting to you, they are ready to explore the rest of the house. DO keep an eye on them on stairs as they are still babies. Try not to move the litter tray and DO introduce a few more if you have a large house. This may result in confusion and accidents. Your kitten is used to: Wood Litter Pellets.
 
Always introduce other pets to your kitten gradually and ALWAYS supervise. It is natural for your kitten to puff up and growl or spit to show they are defending themselves and your pet may do this also. Try not to intervene heavily and keep a calm, encourage voice telling them it is okay. It CAN take a few MONTHS for your kitten to be fully accepted in a house with pets already there. Animals do have a hierarchy system and is a natural process for them to let each other know where they belong in that system! Try to be confident and calm as animals do feed off our actions and energy.
 
Try and baby-proof your home. They will knock of your favourite ornaments by accident when whizzing around playing, may disappear behind the fridge, squeeze out a window, fall down the toilet (and possibly drown!), and eat a plant or flowers, which may be poisonous to cats. Also select good toys, which do not have chokable items, which could come loose. Please note – we can supply you with cat food, litter, bedding and toys at discounted prices so do get in touch if you require anything. Most breeders call it Savannah-Proofing. You have to lock your medicine cupboard, razors in a sharp box and in a lot of cases you are better to have a fridge latch too. One of our F2’s managed to open our freezer door and steal some “Fish Fingers” out of the second drawer, inside a cardboard box. You can’t really be angry at their intelligence, they knew that’s where the food was. They watched us getting food from there and cooking it. They have often opened the oven door to check for any leftovers so it’s important to always be one step ahead of your Savannah cat. Don’t leave anything, anywhere that could be dangerous. You MUST find their intelligence fascinating otherwise it may not be the breed for you.
 
Birth to 4 weeks old
 
Kittens can wean from 4 weeks old but we like them to stay with their mothers until at least 6 weeks old when they are fully weaned. Our new cattery buildings have hospital grade flooring in each room, which means each cat has a full-sized single bedroom to have privacy and give birth in – and I can sleep on the floor beside them. The cattery has music on through out the day and then they get a DVD on a bedtime in the evening. This helps to acclimatize them to all the usual sounds. The daytime is so busy vacuuming and cleaning that they are used to all household noises before they have even progressed to the kitten room. We watch each of the rooms on CCTV, which is linked, to our mobile phones and a large 50” CCTV screen central in our kitchen with all cameras featured on it so they are supervised at all times. Their enclosures also have CCTV, which means there is no place unseen in our cattery. It means then that they are not moved out of their home into a different zone to have their babies. There are 4 of us that work on the cattery and enclosures to maintain an excellent level of hygiene and an excellent level of interaction with all our animals.
 
5 weeks old till leaving day
Once the babies are weaned, we bring them into the kitten room and they enjoy their integration into family life. Your baby will be used to typical things in our house such as Disney Junior, Xbox Car racing and Just Dance, along with a mixture of Country, Dance, Drum and Bass, Dubstep, Pop and Rock/ Metal Music.
 
They will be used to playing with toy cars, craft and anything else a 6 year old would take into the kitten room with him! We also watch some movies with the surround sound on, which can be funny to watch them adapting to. They are placed beside dinosaurs as part of an attack on an army of dragon warriors or given an important role in choosing colour of paint for a picture although sometimes our Son does disagree with their choice of pink for his pictures!
 
These souls can breathe family life and we aim for them to be just as important in their furrever home. This is why selecting a breeder is crucial when choosing your Savannah. If all they have learned through their short time with the breeder is that humans are there to feed them and change their litter tray, then they will not want to be around them. They will not want to be around you and you will need to work hard to win them round.

2. First few days
 
Your cat has been brought up in a very social environment with children. Your kitten should not be nervous after a week in it’s new home with you. Remember that our kittens are full wild or hybrid cats and can be picky with who they decide to bond with. They usually form a parent/child type bond with one person but that is not to say that your kitten will not be approachable by anyone else. Encourage visitors to talk to your cat and pet them but do not force people or children on your kitten as it may deter them from people in future. Gradual is a key word we use for just about everything as cat breeders. Introduce them gradually to both you and your new home.
 
Don’t feed normal portions. Offer smaller amounts and more regularly. This helps to encourage your kitten to eat as the food is fresh each time and the amount is not overwhelming. Also, it helps to let them know that you are there to care.

3. What to feed and when
 
Your kitten is used to being fed 4 times a day.
These times are:
7am, 12pm, 5pm and 9pm.
 
We feed Purrform Kitten Food and Carny Kitten, which is a complete diet. We do not put on any extras such as powders because the food they are eating is complete. With Wild cats, you can add some Taurine or Calcium as they can require higher doses than domestic cats. You can feed raw food or any other kitten food as long as it is a good quality food. We do not force you to feed raw but we do ask that you feed grain-free food because it is much better for them. We do not feed wild cats biscuits or kibble. They have a full meat/ prey diet only.

4. Litter trays and toileting
 
Wild cats usually prefer open top trays or 25 litre tubs. Wood pellet litter is usually best although for smaller kittens chick feed can be better in case they eat parts of it. Our hybrid cats prefer hooded trays but they must be very clean. One toilet break can mean the whole tray is deemed unusable – so grab a few before your baby comes home. Make sure you have a few about the house to ensure the cat knows where it is. Put your new cat in the litter tray several times a day to encourage them to use it and remind them where it is.

5. Introduction to other cats
 
Don’t just let them loose and expect everything to be great. It can be! But it doesn’t always work out like that. You need to remember that any animal is an intruder in an already formed household. The pack needs to restructure and build again. This takes time. Be very encouraging and calm. If they hiss and spit, alongside puffing up just speak calmly and let them know it’s okay. Never give them into trouble or shout as it only heightens the anxiety and makes a bad atmosphere within the situation.

6. Introduction to dogs and other pets
 
Always ensure that your cat has somewhere high to get away from the other pets. If you find that the dog is very aggressive through a controlled introduction such as through a glass door or through a baby gate, then make sure they are on the lead so you can be in control of the situation. Never panic if they start to fight. Try to diffuse the situation quickly and calmly.  You will be surprised how quick they will get used to each other. It does take time and patience.

7. Good Suppliers
 
Suppliers we recommend are:-
Zooplus
PetPlanet.co.uk
Purrform.co.uk
Cattreeking.co.uk
McClaw cat wheels
B & M Stores Cat Litter and toys

8. Calling for advice
 
You can call us for absolutely anything at all! When you buy a kitten from us you get a 24 hour number for advice.

9. Choosing a vet
 
Ensure that your vet is comfortable treating a wildcat or hybrid. Most vets are okay with it but some of them can be uncomfortable as it is not the normal protocol and they don’t want to make a mistake, which could cost them their career. Power is knowledge so you don’t need to fear taking them to the vet – help your vet understand their needs.

10. Vaccinations and Healthcare
 
a. Vaccinations
 
You kitten is vaccinated twice before it leaves unless you have them young for bonding as wild cats. Afterwards, we recommend vaccinations every 18 months. Every 12 months is over-vaccinating, although your vet will recommend it.

b. Worming
 
We recommend always using Advocate Spot On. If you can, import it to your country, as it’s very effective against just about every parasite.

c. Fleas
 
Do not use any Bob Martin product as they can be dangerous and are cheap for a reason. You can use frontline or Advocate spot on.

d. Injuries
 
If your cat is injured or suffering in any way then take them to the vet. Do not rely on social media for a response. Take them to the vet immediately, but please do let us know.

e. Emergencies
 
It is advisable to ensure that you don’t use ketamine in emergency surgeries as it is known cause issues or even death in wild cats or hybrids., however, we have used this in spay/neuter and also some emergency surgeries and had no problems with it on our hybrid cats. It is believed any complications associated with ketamine and hybrid cats could be linked to HCM because of the way it alters blood pressure and heart rates. There is no proof on this subject however hearsay causes us to be cautious and advise caution in any case.

11. Insurance
 
It is definitely worth insuring your kitten or cat. Certain companies will only cover you for short term or long term illnesses but be certain to write down what you need cover for and work out a budget. Many insurers won’t guarantee the purchase price of a hybrid or wild cat and may only offer a small amount against the purchase price. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t insure them as vets bills can run into the thousands.

12. TICA Registration
 
We will ensure that you receive the Green slip or breeder slip when you receive your cat or kitten. If you have chosen your own name then we guarantee it will be with you within 2 months of arrival.

13. Bonding for life
 
Your baby needs to know you are the number one thing in their life. This is why it’s important to help them realise this bond from day one. It will come, but the older the cat, the earlier the generation, the harder they are to ‘break’. All our cats are completely socialized so we don’t have any concerns in terms of willingness to play or come and greet you, however if you have a wild cat, the bonding process is more difficult and you will need to work hard with them alongside being very patient. Your visitors need to know how to respect and care for the animals and also if you are on holiday, you might want to get someone to come to your home, rather than them going to the cattery to reduce the stress on them. Patience, playtime and basic care are the start of the bonding process. Talk to your cat and A LOT. Let them recognize your voice and feel the comfort from it. They will learn to love you.

14. Breeding and Code of Ethics
 
You are not allowed to breed from this cat unless we have registered it, Stylisticat, on the active register with TICA. If your cat has been sold on the inactive register then it MUST be neutered or spayed by the time it is 5 months of age and certainly before we will transfer them into your name through TICA. Please see our TICA Voluntary Code of Ethics as to why we follow this rule.
 
We work extremely hard to develop an excellent breeding standard. We are inspected annually from a Veterinary Surgeon and the local council to receive our Cattery of Excellence by TICA and renew our Dangerous Wild Animal Licence, which is required to have Serval’s and F1’s.
 
If you are buying a DWA you MUST have suitable housing and provide us with a copy of your DWA before we will sell you one. We are required to keep a log of DWA sales by the local council as part of our licence.
 
We are certified as “Responsible Breeders” by The International Cat Association and have signed the Voluntary Code of Ethics.
 
We abide by these rules as follows:
 
1. We will remain in good standing of TICA and have a registered cattery.
2. We will breed discriminately and ensure we find appropriate homes who can provide a life-long commitment
 
Any cat sold as a pet or show will be sold under the following conditions:
 
a) We guarantee the cats in good health at the time of sale.
b) We urge the buyer to have the cat examined by his or her own vet.
c) We require the cat be neutered or spayed.
d) We have explained the dangers of the outdoors.
e) We have provided a written sales agreement.
f) We will only provide the TICA registration/ pedigree for the kitten ONLY AFTER we have received written confirmation from a licensed VS that the cat has been neutered or spayed.
g) We encourage you to contact us if you have questions and will respond in a timely manner.
h) We will not release a kitten, which hasn’t been inoculated twice against at least: Rhinotracheitis, panleukopenia and calicivirus.

15. Enclosure
 
If you can afford to build your enclosure fully in metal then we would recommend it simply because it’s easier to clean, much more longer lasting and require minimum maintenance. You can build one yourself or use a supplier.

a. Design
 
Try to include different zones such as water play, balls, rolling around, jumping, climbing. These areas need to be cleaned and also they need to be maintained so try not to make them too difficult to look after. Cats often find places to defecate that are inaccessible by humans so try not to construct something, which causes issues before the cats are even in it. A planted are is also desirable – even with artificial plants.

b. Enrichment
 
You can use rope swings, plants, balls, ball pits, swimming pools, sand pits, bark, hanging baskets, water features, boxes, artificial ivy and logs to create beautiful zones which are interesting to your cat. Try to avoid using concrete slabs over the whole area because it isn’t soft on your cat’s paws and therefore they can wear their pads away walking on concrete all day. Try and think like a cat, make it interesting, put food inside cardboard boxes, have high shelves, hang logs to walk along – important part – have fun doing it!

c. Suppliers
 
Contact us for local suppliers in the UK.

"Spread your wings and breed the best!"
as featured in an interview for "Cat-Info", Russia - Special Savannah Edition

Translation to Follow!

Recently, the discovery of the PRA-gene has been dicovered in a few cats within the Savannah breed. These cats are from A1Savannahs lines and are A1Savannahs cats with several cats in the ancestry which we, as breeders, are all likely to have in our pedigrees. The concern is that finding out where these cats are currently located to be able to test will be a collaborative nightmare between breeders and pet buyers. Some of the cats are even now deceased and unable to be tested.

So what is PRA and why do we need to be concerned?
PRA is the shortened version of the disease Progressive Retinal Atrophy and this gene means that a mutation, which is scientifically labelled as rdAc occurs in the CEP290 gene. This means that a  deficient protein that is associated with progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) in the Abyssinian cat and related cats. 

Usually, clinical signs typically become evident between 8 and 20 weeks of age and the disease progresses so that by around one year of age complete retinal degeneration is apparent in most cats according to Ofri R, Reilly CM, Maggs DJ, et al. Characterization of an early-onset, autosomal recessive, progressive retinal degeneration in Bengal cats. Invest Ophthalmol Vis Sci. 2015;56:5299–5308. The problem is that this is not always the case as more research is being done, a lot older cats have the gene but haven't yet shown any signs of the disease. (Langfords Vets, UK)

​PRA is a disease which affected the sight of cats. The photo receptors start to deteriorate in the retina and affected cats develop 'late onset blindness'. This is usually detectable, I am advised by Langfords Vets, usually by 3 to 5 years of age. Worryingly though, it may not be detectable until they are aged 6 or older. The problem for many breeders who have retired and sold breeding cats at 2 or 3 years old is that some of the pet buyers are unknown to the breeder by the time the cat turns 7 (4 years later!) or if the cat shows any signs of blindness, the buyer often will not contact the breeder to let them know, leaving them blissfully unaware that there is a problem in the line. Some owners may also put sight deterioration down to old age, even though it is actually a defective gene which the cat possesses. It is very important to know that the age of disease onset and progression can be variable and some affected cats may not develop clinical signs, and eventually blindness, until later in life.

Is this the same as PRA-B?
PRA-B is the gene for the same disease which has been identified in the Bengal breed. You will often hear Bengal breeders saying "PRA-B Normal" in their cattery information or on their kitten adverts. This means they have screened their cats and are only using normal breeding cats in their programme.

Langfords Vets gave me very detailed information about this disease on the 30th of January 2017. They stated that is works in exactly the same way as PK Deficiency (see here) and carriers should not be bred together which has recently happened, producing affected kittens. 

Important Point

A lot of Savannah breeders are still in their infancy of their 'breeding career' (under 10 years) and so therefore, it is difficult to discern IF we have a major cause for concern within the breed or if it is something we can eradicate from a few lines within a few generations.

How many cats are realistically affected and what do I do about it?
By January 30th 2017, Langfords Veterinary Laboratories in the UK had performed tests on 309 Savannah Cats for PK Deficiency and a grand total of 0 (zero) tests were performed for PRA and 0 (zero) for PRA-B. They were happy for me to publish this data. I am currently awaiting UC Davis (University of California Laboratory) to respond to me with this data. They will now have all of our swabs to process, the first Savannah's in the UK to be tested, and can only identify certain markers or breed-specific problems if we all test for this defective gene.

Breeds known to be currently affecting by PRA are:
* Abyssinian
* American Curl
* American Wirehair
* Balinese
* Bengal
* Colourpoint Shorthair
* Cornish Rex
* Javanese
* Ocicat
* Oriental Shorthair
* Siamese
​* Singapura
* Somali
* Tonkinese 

We all have several of those breeds behind our Savannah's and then some....!

Langfords advised me that as Bengal cats have such a heavy influence in the early lines (and some current) of the Savannah breed:

Option A:
Neuter or spay the cat. 
​
Option B: 

1. If it is an exceptional cat then breed it to a NORMAL cat ONLY.
2. The result of this is that you will produce ALL CARRIER offspring. 100% of offspring will be carriers. 
3. MICROCHIP ALL KITTENS - This is important to prevent mix ups.
4. Keep one and 'pet out' all that you will not keep to try and replace the affected parent.
5. Mate the carrier kitten you kept to NORMAL cat. 25 - 75% can be normal or carriers.
6. Keep a NORMAL kitten and spay or neuter the positive cat.
7. You have eradicated the positive carrying cat but still retained the line with NO PRA.​

This is a long process but worth it to eradicate PRA from the line but still ensure you have the beauty of the line locked in.

It is not advisable to knowingly bring a PRA Affected cat into your cattery.

Option A:
Neuter or spay the cat. 
​
Option B: 

1. If it is an exceptional cat then breed it to a NORMAL cat ONLY.
2. The result of this is that you will produce CARRIER AND NORMAL offspring. 25 - 75% can be normal or carriers
3. MICROCHIP ALL KITTENS.  This is extremely important to prevent any confusion on sales between carriers or normal kittens.
4. Scan chip and test all kittens with a swab > send to Langfords.
5. Keep a NORMAL kitten and spay or neuter the positive cat.
6. You have eradicated the positive carrying cat but still retained the line with NO PRA.​
7. NOTE: You can sell other normal kittens for breeding as they will not have the gene. Buying or selling a carrier kitten is not recommended as there a risks involved and prolongs the issue.

Your cat does not have PRA and therefore is able to be bred from without worrying about PRA. It is advisable to check for PRA in any cats you use for breeding moving forward.

​ 

Here are the cats which are contained within the pedigree of one known affected cat so any number of these cats could be the source of the PRA defective genes being passed on.