F1 Savannah Cat for sale....no, not worded correctly. I’ll try again.

Not really the ideal sales advert or the ideal solution for either the cat in question or myself.

Owning early generation hybrids and wild cats means that you really do need to be responsive to their needs and change things to suit them where possible. Sometimes when a group have been friends through a juvenile period, after becoming Mothers themselves or even approaching adulthood, the hormones can really upset the balance in a cattery environment, even in large enclosures. We always aim to keep the cats occupied through various enrichment experiences and change things up regularly within their enclosures. Sometimes when the cats take a dislike to each other, they can stay in their “mood” for weeks and even months at a time. You, as a responsible owner, must take the sufficient steps to ensure there is a balance at all times.

Emira our F1 Savannah has always been the most stand-off-ish out of our F1’s and a bit less predictable. She was completely un-socialised when we got her, which meant she was absolutely terrified to come near us. Our advice when we received her was, “here is some Supermarket branded pouches with gravy, she likes those best and kibble along with a couple of mice”. I kept her on the Tesco value sachets and biscuits for the first few weeks as I didn’t want to make her feel even worse. We then moved to what she should’ve been on and that was raw meat. The breeder had also kindly included a blanket – for comfort of smell you would think? No, the blanket was for picking her up with, it was for our 'protection', not for the comfort of the kitten. We were advised not to look her in the eyes and put the blanket over our hands before picking her up, ideally from her backed into a corner so we could control her spitting fit. “She is an F1” we were told. “This is what they are like at 10 weeks, totally wild but will come round through time”.

Emira was our first F1, we were very naïve and didn’t realise that she was far from what a socialised and loved F1 should be like on arrival. Thankfully all our other F1’s were raised in the family home and loved dearly before they came to us. They purred! Purring is something we never got from Emi until she was with us for about 6 months. I wouldn’t give up on her.

After time progressed Emira came round, never really enjoying male human company despite the endless nights of playing without eye contact and reaching out to her without force from my Husband. She has always been so striking in looks and produced lovely kittens for us. She got on with my female serval so well when she was introduced as a playmate as a kitten. They played great together and even slept beside each other in the indoor sleeping house.

After Emira had kittens, she decided she didn’t like the serval anymore. The serval grew bigger and Emira just ‘felt different’. We resisted the sale of Emi for so long and tried changing the cats round, but then it left everyone else upset. She gave my serval a hard time and then as the serval grew, she got it back twice as hard. “I’ll have to rehome her, it’s the only option to rework the balance”, I said to Gordon. “She just hates this serval and I don’t know what else to do”. I asked a breeder who owns Emira’s sisters at her cattery and she said, “I don’t want her. We have enough problems with her sisters!”. I thought, well, at least Emira is not causing any problems when she is not with the serval, so that is a bonus!

F1 Savannah cats are notorious, along with servals for imprinting on one (to two at the most) human. They do this from a young age, within the first few months of their life and that is why getting an F1 no later than 12 weeks is advisable. Getting an F1 after 12 weeks old could be too late and mean that they won’t accept you without a tremendous amount of work, sometimes to no avail. Moving them to a new home can be catastrophic for them and the new owners. I had heard this for years from several breeders, namely of servals and F1's, where they said they would keep all their cats for life…until recently we were told that several breeders cats had been offered for free as an “off-load” to make way for new cats. Along with advice on how never to advertise on certain listings and just to give them away cheap to make it look like you are in demand. They advised me on not selling cats unless they were excellent type and to give away those ones less than perfect, which would ensure your image was perfect because of the way of customer perception. “Everyone is full of shit”, I thought. "I'm my own person, honest, first and foremost and I can make the right decisions for my own cattery". The people who have done this for way longer than us, that preached the best way to care for early generation hybrids and wild cats in the beginning, were doing exactly what they told us never to do - rehoming! You now see their own advice not applying to the person giving it but happy to deceive everyone through hiding the less-than-perfect parts of breeding. I thought to myself, who-ever I decide to home Emi with must have vast amount of experience and be willing to put in the work to bring her round to trusting them. How else could we work out the situation to accommodate, most importantly? But who can I trust?

I reluctantly advertised her. The advert was the largest post I have ever written for an advert on a cat for sale. I boasted about her type, my darling baby, so perfect in every way, the perfect cat. “Doesn’t get along with my serval”, I wrote. I thought this is absolutely killing me.

I received loads of e-mails every day about her. People saw it as a bargain.
“I don’t have a licence but I’ll get one, how much is it?”
“I breed blue puppies because I get £1,000 more a puppy than regular puppies – breed removed- so I’d like an F1 Savannah 'cause they make the most”
“I’ll give you X for her as she is less valuable than a kitten”
It was ALL about money, no-one had a *swear word removed* care about the difficulties in mating F1's. How can I even consider discussing the TYPE of home on offer when we can’t even get past the financial ‘interest’. This isn’t working. To be honest, she is a really friendly F1 now when she is not kittening and I had no concerns with her temperament on a regular day. No-one was really ever going to understand the difference of an F1’s temperament when they have kittens and how to suit/ adjust things to suit an F1 queen which has kittens, when they were more interested in the financial outcome of such kittens. And what happened when they realised how hard it can be to produce F2 kittens or to have live F2 kittens even AFTER a mating has been successful? The thing I most interested in for my F1 was TRUST.

We sat on the bench one evening, as we do, while I have a cup of tea and a chat with the early generation Savannah girls. They know all my stories and secrets. They chat back to me. Emi was reaching up and pawing my face so I would lower it in order for her to reach and give me a head bop. “Ma-ma”, she meowed and I just burst into tears.

I just can’t let my girl go. She is my child and I am her Mother, her world. I have to make this work, there must be another way.

Revelation moment and total re-evaluation of the setup. We pulled together and brain-stormed, drew up plans, put ideas across to each other.

Emira has a new fantastic enclosure pictured above where she now lives happily with some of our other F1’s, her best friends.
 
The plans were drawn up, the enclosures were all re-worked and within 2 weeks of re-working it all, the equilibrium that we once had, was restored. We now have other enclosures drawn up to ensure that we can move any more girls if required. They are our babies and I couldn’t ever imagine them going anywhere else. 
 
Hallelujah!!!
 
What do you think of your new enclosure Emi?
She just looked at me, just like in this picture below.

Its going to to be an exciting year. We have some wonderful cats coming to join us into our breeding programme from the USA and Europe and we have successfully rehomed ones that we decided to no longer use in our programme.

We have been getting to work on our new concept of the Feline Centre which we hope to open either at the end of 2017 or early 2018. This centre will be based at our home and only be available to visit through private arrangements for a one to one hands on experience with an array of cats. The purpose of the centre will be to support the reintroduction and preservation of certain species which we have been offered to work with, even the privilege of supporting some endangered species, which we will be helping to support the breeding programme with our Zoo colleagues, private owners and colleagues within our own facility.

It is very exciting and we can't thank the people enough who have shared their time with us, forming good working relationships and some friendships within the professional wild animal field. The dedication and determination on our part has helped to demonstrate the passion to work with the cats and that has been worth its weight in gold in achieving certain goals. It is not an act or falsified in any way to portray an image for commercial purposes. That's the beauty about being a small team of Wife, Husband and some extended family members. The friendships are closer with those who we call friends and they know they mean a lot to us. This also means that when people come to us for advice we can give them it with a heart felt response. If someone asks us for a certain thing which doesn't fit with our vision and goals then we won't offer it - even though it could be very easy to do things and make a quick buck. Working at the Zoo is also a massive milestone and as I'm going afterwards to do Veterinary and Zoo related studies, it all seems like we are on the right track.

We are very much looking forward to being able to provide people with that much sought after "experience day" where they can come and be a keeper of our wild cats for the day and really get involved with the husbandry. We feel that this will be very educational in itself to allow people to properly identify if wild cat ownership really is for them and provide the opportunity to ask a load of questions. Some of the big cats may not be suitable for the hands on experience as much as the smaller cats such as our servals and caracals but we do aim to work on that.

For those who decide to apply for a wild cat from us (or others) we will be aiming to provide a days course where they will be given the dwa requirements and a chance to run through their own plans for their enclosures, experience the cats hands on, prepare food and learn about the techniques of smaller wild cat feeding, learn about diet and nutrition, help with the cleaning of the enclosures and discuss environmental enrichment, discuss breeding plans and receive support and guidance on getting started.

It will be amazing to show people how loving our tame wild cats are and be able to show them how to get their own wild cats to grow up in the same manner of mutual respect and love (something which is often overlooked when buying a wild cat). Behaviour training and understanding is one of the most important aspects of wild cat ownership because without creating respect for each other you could simply have a wild cat which gets no enjoyment from living in captivity, you don't get the chance to enjoy the cat and the whole idea of having a bond becomes a distant dream. We hope to help people get it right from the word go and really enjoy the experience it can bring.

As a secondary additional service the centre will take any wild cats or hybrid cats which need a new home but one cannot be sourced from the current owner or the cat requires to be placed in emergency respite until paperwork clearance comes through.

​We hope to work with behavioural issues if necessary putting the feline behaviour management qualification into place and also putting our work in Africa with cats to good use. We will always aim to rehome any cats that fall into the DWA category. This service is currently active but we are in the process of making it all more official through registration as a separate entity and not part of Stylisticat.

Hope you enjoy your Easter break! We'd be happy to have any volunteers who would like to come and help us do some groundwork and spring cleaning. (Cat cuddles guaranteed) ;) and remember: chocolate is poisonous to cats so make sure you keep those eggs safely stored.

Sincerely yours,

Kayleigh McIntosh-Lowrie
Stylisticat UK

I thought it was important to put up something for those who ask us for stud to read.

1. Mostly, people who ask us for stud, bought their cat not knowing if they would breed from them or not as a kitten. For us, this is usually the first warning sign as the kitten would not have been properly assessed for the breed standard when bought. Also, if the kitten has any faults the person usually wants to 'just get one litter from them', which is not the norm for any breeder unless it's simply to get their money back that they paid out for their cat in the first place. A cat is usually sold as a breeder OR a pet, not BOTH.
2. We try to improve the standard in any kittens we produce so are very protective of where our lines go to and which breeders they will be mated with. We really want the breed to improve and get those traits out which are in some lines. Many breeders won't sell their kittens to new breeders because they tend to realise they don't like it and rehome the cats they bought for breeding to try and get their money back, or they don't know how to care for kittens. A lot of people unfortunately do think it's just a quick buck or two.
3. The main reason though, which applies to the remainder of breeders who have purchased their kitten with breeding rights and intentionally planned to breed from the said cats is: Testing. There is a lot of testing involved in our facility before a kitten can even be put with the rest of the cats - and we don't mean in beside them, we just mean nearby in their own designated space.

Careful consideration is taken to have a NEW cat or kitten which we intend to purchase tested before it leaves the premises of the breeder and again upon arrival. It is only rarely we will accept a cat in which hasn't been tested before it arrived, which we then test.

Testing is wonderful and horrible all at the same time. Why do I say that?
Sometimes you can bring in the most beautiful cats to your cattery which look perfectly fit and healthy and they only display the symptoms of their internal issues when they are stressed. Basically, even if you test your cat before it leaves, it could show positive when tested on arrival due to stress triggering the immune system level to drop, allowing the virus to be (in simple terms) allowed to develop and attack.

The times of stress in a cat usually involve either:
A: Travel,
B: Mating,
C: Settling into a new home/ environment,
D: Overcrowding.

If you have had a cat tested before it leaves for a full upper respiratory panel including Calicivirus, Chlamydia, Mycoplasma and Herpes, along with a faecal PCR (Poo Sample), then this gives a full range of results of the status of the cat in a normal state i.e. non-stressed. The cost of these tests are £225 per cat for us.

Upon arrival, the cat would then require to be tested ideally immediately and AGAIN about 2 - 3 weeks later (with results taking 10 - 14 days to come back) to ensure any infections had adequate incubation time to be displayed on a PCR test result. This way the cat has been tested 3 times and had a quarantine period of at least one month at our premises before being fully admitted i.e. a stud being put with a queen.

If we have a new Queen, then our policy is that we will allow her at least 2 months of settling in time, before considering putting her with another cat to live with. The 2 months is not inclusive of the quarantine period as there is a specific pen to cover the quarantine period and we only have one (or two if from the same place) at the one time in this area.

Why would we spend £££ per cat on testing before having them fully integrated?

Most Upper Respiratory Infections spread so easily among catteries as they can be spread from clothing, shoes, gloves, door handles and even the air.

This is why perspex is used in the event that the tests have missed something which hasn't been shed at the time of testing so that if anything does ever come up it will be contained to a pen. (Touch Wood).

So if your cat was in heat and you brought her to us, you would've spent around £225 x 3 sets = £675. And this is before your stud fee was charged. We would also retest our stud and show you a clear panel but this would be included in the fee.

Fee-wise - what would we need to charge for this to be worth it?
The normal fee for stud in the UK is £500. If we deduct £225 from this it's not really worth all the hassle...

Some cats have intermittent shedding of viruses so it cannot even be detected with tests unless you repeat weekly - I never want to have to go through the cost of that so I don't want to put my cats at risk.

Your cat would have to clear the 3 months quarantine procedure so we would need to then wait for the appropriate heat period to have her mated thereafter. Housing someone elses cat for 3 months plus however long a hear-period takes to appear can be very costly when it's a heated pen, food water, wastage etc. So now realistically we're into the £850+ fee for stud by the time the testing is done too.

£675 testing + £850 stud fee = £1,525 cost outlay to you.

Oh, and have you got an HCM scan certificate to show us?
By this point most have ran a mile. When we mention HCM scans they don't want to know!
READ ABOUT HCM HERE.
We will not allow any of our boys to mate an untested Queen inclusive of HCM too. Our HCM tests cost £135 per cat, so if you haven't done it already then include this into your cost.

Now you're at £1,660 and you know that Savannah Studs can be purchased between £1,500 and £4,000, right? You can own your own tested and safe male for the same cost it would likely be to stud here. Always ask for the test certificates for HCM and PCR tests before you bring a male into your cattery. You can have  a happy female more likely to be mated because she is at home and putting her in a males pen on your own premises will not cause any high levels of stress. It is always worth noting that any mating process is stressful for any cat as they are highly hormonal during that period so it is not normal behaviour for them. By moving the female off-premises, it can trigger other elements of stress which can cause complications and then who will be the one to blame - the one with the Stud or the one with the Queen?

Chances are, as soon as we mention tests, people tend to run a mile and just take their cat untested to Joe Bloggs' cat untested and hope for the best. That's fine if they are happy with that - it's completely none of our business and we are only writing this to display the reasons why we don't offer stud. Call us too protective perhaps, some even call us over the top. Some breeders will tell you that you don't need to test, that you don't require an HCM Scan because it's inconclusive particularly in early gens (which is a load of rubbish as we've never had an inconclusive result even on F1's!), that HCM is not a problem in the breed so you don't need to worry (they obviously do not read about the owners who have lost cats to HCM on Savannah groups), that the disease is in all cats so you may aswell not worry about any infections...(no comment) and my all time favourite...wait for it:

Yep. I have even discussed testing before with a breeder which claimed the above. Wow, really? Microscopic Vision. I have heard it all now! You cannot KNOW simply by looking at your cats. The only way to truly know is perform a full panel of PCR's.

As long as we're clean and healthy and continue to produce clean and healthy cats then that's all that matters here. I'm sorry we can't help you out but hopefully potentially saved your cat or whole cattery from being put at risk by you reading this.

NOTE: We don't offer stud to general public but do work with Zoos and private owners on the above stud plan when working to preserve any at risk species with some of our other wild cats, where the husbandry we provide is also reflected in their own facility.

Best wishes,

Where do I start?

So you are wondering how we have come to own such beautiful cats and wondered where to start, whilst you give the idea of exotic cat or dangerous wild animal licenced cat ownership very careful consideration…
 
We receive many questions on a daily basis on how to obtain these animals and if they are all as wonderfully tame as they are in our videos which we post regularly on social media. I decided to write this small article as a rough guide to cover these questions and explain reasons behind my answers. I will also discuss the breeding aspect of these animals very lightly.
 
I will refer to the “DWA”, and the, “DWAA” throughout and these abbreviate the “Dangerous Wild Animal” and “Dangerous Wild Animal Act”.
 
Any animal considered not to be domesticated falls into the DWA category in the United Kingdom. You will find that parts of the world have different rules and do not even licence some wild cats for private ownership. In some countries not only wild cat ownership, but hybrid ownership is banned altogether. I would suggest that before deciding to really research private exotic cat ownership, whether this be a hybrid or full wild cat, please do check your local laws depending on which state or country you are in. This is primarily aimed at the UK DWAA, but can be used as a guideline or part of your research on wild cat ownership anywhere in the world as I hope it can give you some useful information.
 
The Dangerous Wild Animals Act was first produced in 1976 and amended in 2010. The purpose of the act was to prevent incompetent ownership of the larger species which were widely available around the time of the Act’s compilation. Do not get me wrong, there are still a number of private owners in the UK with leopards, pumas, cheetahs, tigers and other larger species but they are licenced and inspected annually/ bi-annually to ensure the welfare of the animal is being prioritised.

There are no different rules in Scotland, Northern Ireland, Wales or England.
 
What is the requirements of a DWA Licence and how do I find out more?
 
Firstly, there are no physical national requirements on enclosure sizes, materials, lighting, heating or design structure. The answer is simply- speak to your local council animal welfare officer. Each individual council or county has their own requirements on what they feel meets the DWAA compliance for them to issue you with a licence.
 
I will give you an example of 4 different wild cat owners enclosure types and they all have DWA Licences:

NOTE: the comfort rating and security rating is a personal opinion and is not issued by a council. The rating is inserted to help potential DWA cats keepers to understand the difference that enclosures can make to the life of the animals in their care.
 
Who enforces the DWAA?
 
Your local council holds full responsibility to enforce the DWAA and issue or refuse to issue licences to Dangerous Wild Animal keepers.
 
It is worth noting that you must apply for a DWA licence before you obtain your animal you intend to keep on your premises.
 
Most councils have application forms for a DWA licence so by asking for one well in advance, you will have an insight into what information the council will require from you. It may also be worth speaking to your council DWA officer to gain the contact details of the Veterinary Surgeon who will be inspecting your enclosure. You can then contact her/ him directly and discuss any concerns or recommendations they may have well before you start your building project.
 
It is worth remembering that there are a few requirements that must be met to adhere to the act and this is what the council is there to enforce under the act.
 
What are the basic requirements of a DWA Licence?
 
The council will check to ensure that:

1. Your animal is not likely to cause nuisance to neighbours through noise or smell for example,
2. You have a current public liability insurance policy to cover the animal,
3. You fully understand what the animal is required to eat and your proposed food is adequate,
4. You fully understand the characteristics of the animal inclusive of exercise requirements,
5. Your animal can exercise and move freely within the enclosure proposed,
6. Your enclosure is constructed of good materials (to keep the animal secure) although each council has different ideas on what is secure or not,
7. Fire Extinguisher and you can operate it,
8. Emergency Procedures,
9. Dedicated Veterinary Surgeon for the animal,
10. Vaccination Procedures (how will the animal be annually protected and will the vet come to you),
11. Heating is adequate for the animal to be comfortable in all weathers,
12. Accommodation will be dry and ventilated if required,
13. Accommodation will have adequate entry/ exit procedures i.e. double or triple door system.
14. If you are trying to licence your home, you must have secure provisions installed such as:
    1. Self-close door systems,
    2. Secure entry systems where the animal can be accessed i.e. key/ pin code,
    3. Lockable windows,
    4. Adequate sanitary provision,
    5. Animal carriers for emergency vacate,
    6. Emergency procedures,
    7. Fire Extinguishers,
    8. Appropriate meat storage (raw meat & chicks etc),
15. It may be worth thinking thoroughly through your escape procedures very thoroughly as some councils may not grant a licence on the basis of poor enclosure structure or lack of knowledge. We have a gamekeeper in the local area who has been allocated an emergency position in case of escape and we are unable to capture. The purpose of this is to ensure that there is no threat to the public. It is then down to the individual licensee to ensure that they never have to make that call…

 
If a licence will be issued, it will include the following:

1. How many animals are covered on the licence and what species,
2. Where the animals will be kept,
3. The address of the property,
4. The persons licenced to keep the animals (this usually ties in with public liability insurance too so do make sure you have all the names of the people you require to be in contact with the animal on the licence).
5. If the applicant is over the age of 18 years and has been previously disqualified from keeping DWA animals,
6. A police check for all persons named on the licence,
7. Any restrictions placed on the licence i.e. number of DWA kittens allowed on premises and age they should be moved from the home DWA out into the main enclosures. It will also detail the moving of the animals and that this should be done in appropriate, secure carriers.
8. A fee payable to the council to cover vet visits and administration, usually around £200 - £300 depending on the area you live.

 
If I plan to breed DWA’s – what happens when another one comes for breeding?
 
Call your council well in advance to notify them and ensure they add the cat on to your licence. Councils have the right to discretion and as this is a temporary situation you will be able to add on the animal for a short period.
 
Do I really need a licence? How would anyone know any different?
 
Power to seize
 
Firstly, we do not trade any animals under the DWA to non-DWA holders. Please do not ask us as we will not risk the safety of our animals.
 
We have exceptionally high-standards in our facility and if you are not deemed competent by the local authority in your area, then we will not undermine this decision, or overrule and give you a cat anyway.
 
“But I’m about to build an enclosure”
“I’m just waiting on my inspection”
“I’ll build the enclosure before the kitten gets big”
“It’s only the one cat, so I don’t think I really need an enclosure”
 
If you would like a kitten from us which requires a DWA licence then please provide us with a copy of your licence that has already been granted.
 
NOTE: Where an animal is being kept contrary to the section 1 (1) of the DWAA (held without a licence when it requires a licence) or any condition of your DWA licence is contravened/ you are non-compliant, the council may seize your animal.
 
The council can hold on to it, rehome it, destroy it or whatever they decide and they NOT liable to pay any compensation for the animal to the owner. Not only do they not need to compensate the owner but they can also charge fees for uplifting the animal and doing what they have decided to do with it. This debt is recoverable through court.
 
I find it difficult to encounter the wild cats which I would like to own…why is everyone so protective?
 
You need to work for trust. Network. Visit places if people will allow you to. If breeders of the animal you want to keep are being secretive, ask yourself why. It can be difficult to source if wild cats are inbred or not without being in contact with other people who have bought cats from the person you decide to buy from. If you genuinely want to purchase a wild cat or F1 hybrid then ask breeders if you can spend some time with the breeds they have, stating your genuine interest in purchasing one. Some breeders may even accept volunteers, but be sure that they have adequate insurance to cover others in with their DWA animals. To explain this further, one of our insurance policies only covers those named on the licence, so we have had to take out a further policy to cover those who are not named. By having two, we can change the amount of liability and the type of contact with the animals.
 
What cats are covered under the DWAA?
 
A selection – (remember if it is not considered domestic, then a licence is applicable):
Bobcat
Caracal
Cheetah
Jaguar
Lion
Lynx
Ocelot
Puma
Serval
Tiger
 
If I have an enclosure built and a DWA licence granted, can I bring the animal in the house?
 
No. Not unless you have your house or more specifically an area of the house dedicated to DWA animals. This is not easily attainable but is achievable through time and knowledge.
 
What’s the point is keeping a DWA animal outside in an enclosure all the time? I want a DWA pet.
 
A dangerous wild animal licence covers you for animals that are not “pets”. The term pet is part of the reason why the act was introduced. The fact that these animals are not domesticated means that they are not well-suited to houses or the domestic lifestyle. It is often that these animals will not use a litter tray or play with something that was a much cherished possession of their owners. DWA cats are quicker, smarter, more agile and can give bigger bites than your average domestic cat – they need to be kept secure not only for public safety, but for their own.
 
If you decide to bring your cat in and it escapes, you will have to put your emergency procedures into place and you could lose your cat and your licence. If you really want your DWA cat in the house, plan carefully and have it onto your licence.
 
What if I get a wild cat and I am scared of it?
 
It is natural to be unsure about any animal which you haven’t met before. If you have bought a DWA cat then you must have it transported in a DEFRA-approved vehicle which means it’s suitable for transporting a DWA animal. It is worth getting your own transport approved for this. The travel tends to either completely upset an animal or they breeze through it not even noticing the travel. Give them a quiet room when they come home, but don’t leave them alone. Work with your animal right from the beginning. If your cat has been raised properly then it should be well-socialised and outgoing. Some cats can be shy and will take a few days to come round – but not longer.
 
If you have not owned a hybrid of these animals, it would be worth doing so before taking on a wild cat. In all honesty, an F2 will only give you a slight indication of the temperament of the wild animal in their ancestry.  By F2 there is likely to be around 25% wild genetics (2nd generation) from the wild cat, which is, in wild cat terms, huge dilution. The best thing you can do before making the decision is to get experience. Hopefully you will have taken a long time to consider the DWA cat you have purchased and worked so hard for your licence for. DWA ownership is not for those who are out at work all day as they need regular interaction come rain or shine. If you have a DWA cat and decide that it really isn’t for you after trying your best then it is always likely that the breeder will take the cat back (no refund) and you should always ask them in the first instance should you decide to part with the animal.
 
We are currently going through a long process of setting up a non-profit charity in the UK to help with rescue/ rehoming of DWA cats only as more of them come into ownership in the UK and many often sold to un-licenced or unsuitable homes. Should you decide not to speak with the breeder for personal reasons then please contact us for advice.
 
Are most wild cats like yours in the videos? Can I feed them from my hands? Aren’t they aggressive?
 
I wish I could say they were. Every cat has their own individual temperament but you need to allow enough time when every cat you receive is new to have them imprint on you. Here at Stylisticat, I am the main carer. I am here 24/7 and spend an extensive amount of time with the cats to ensure that they know who is the most trusted person they can rely on. It has been often asked how I have molded them to be so loving when other struggle to get them to come when called or to pet their DWA cats. Some are flabbergasted that I have a serval cuddling on my knee, cleaning my face. It has not come easily and I have had to work so hard for the trust and love that I am given. I always say to people that you reap what you sow. My cats are all affectionate on their terms. The larger wild cats we have here will hiss at visitors who approach the enclosure. Once they get to know them a bit better they will rub themselves along the fence to try and scent the person and show affection. Always be persistent with animals, similar to small children. Do not reward naughty behaviour but do not ignore it either. When wild cats are small they play with their mouths. You may have to wear gloves initially until the training period is over and you and your cat have a behavioural understanding where possible. Some cats do not ever become, ‘safe’, to work with. Bear that in mind. Even my most loving cats can bite or scratch when they want/ do not want something and it’s certainly not just your average nip of the skin. You may get puncture wounds in your skin through play. This can be difficult to get used to initially and is not enjoyable but always have a toy to hand so that you can divert attention and show praise for playing with toys and not human skin. I would never advise playing with any DWA cat of a larger size. There is a great difference for example in the way that I play with Servals than the way I play with caracals! A lot goes on behind the scenes in any DWA Licenced keeper where there are a number of cats – great and not-so-great things. It’s only natural. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
There are loads for sale overseas – how do I import one?
 
Any animal imported may be covered by CITES Licences you can contact CITES here.
Any animal which is covered under a DWA licence i.e. a full wild animal or F1 hybrid cannot travel under the Pet Passport Scheme into the UK.
You will be required to obtain an Import Licence from APHA/ DEFRA - Go to DEFRA.
You will be required to quarantine the animal for 4 months in England and 3 months in Scotland within a DEFRA-approved quarantine facility. The facility will have a quarantine licence and must also obtain a DWA to accept your animal.
 
This page will be updated as more questions are asked to be answered!
 
You can ask us a DWA Licence question here

If you thought owning and breeding a DWA (Dangerous Wild Animal) or raw fed cat had the same hygiene routine as a normal cat then read on!

As an insight, we thought we would give you an idea of what we do to prevent cross-contamination and protect ourselves from infectious diseases/ parasites.

Following these guidelines can seriously improve the health of all involved in a DWA cats facility.

1. ALWAYS wash hands with anti-microbial soap BEFORE handling food, litter, bowls, any animals, kittens/cubs and immediately afterwards.  We always recommend you CHECK the soap or hand sanitiser used to make sure it does not contain propylene glycol. PG is known to cause oxidative stress in cheetahs so could potentially affect your Serval, Caracal, Jungle cat, Savannah cat or Bengal cat.
2. We always place bowls in areas which can be cleaned should the animal thoroughly enjoy it and spread half of it on the floor/ ground. Day old chicks and mice are often thrown around the enclosures so care must be taken to ensure that all parts are removed if the animal decides not to eat them! Feeding larger food on the bone should also be closely monitored, and waste discarded appropriately.
3. Disinfect any touchable point of contact once per week with a strong mix of disinfectant.
4. As hard as it is to follow this rule - try not to kiss the animals (I am a big fat zero compliance with this but it does come with significant risks). The reason for this is that the animal could have faecal particles on their face, body or indeed in their mouth, alongside raw meat residue. Humans are not built to battle this kind of bacteria and it could be detrimental to your health.

We have outlined several routines that you should follow to ensure you have excellent standards of infection control and husbandry to protect all the cats, animals and people under your care. Advice also included for those who are considering breeding cats or keeping larger species.

Please remember that certain groups are more susceptible to risks of infection, for example, children under 5 years old, the elderly and those who are immunosuppressed.
If you have any questions, then please get in touch and we’d be happy to help!

FEEDING

1. ALWAYS clean and disinfect feeding bowls and bottles after each feeding.  We use a high temperature steam blast dishwasher which is for sole-use (also very important) of cat bowls and feeding utensils.
2. ALWAYS sterilise bottles and teats in a steam steriliser after washing in hot soapy water to remove residue.  Cleaning teats with salt helps to remove milk residue – rinse thoroughly prior to sterilising. 

CLEANING/ CLOTHING/ PPE

1. ALWAYS have dedicated (separate) clothes or preferably blue roll for the quarantine/ isolation and kitten area areas should be worn by all kitten/ cub handlers.  Handlers working with isolation kittens or cubs should not have any contact with kittens/ cubs in the main kitten room. 
2. ALWAYS remember if handlers are required to work with both isolation and nursery cubs they must shower (including washing hair), change clothes and use a hand-sanitiser between rooms.  Shoe covers should also be worn inside kitten/ cub enclosures (separate covers used for isolation and nursery rooms).  Alternatively dedicated kitten/ cub shoes can be worn by handlers (separate shoes for isolation and nursery rooms). 
3. A foot dip should be provided for communal areas – placed at the entrance to the house, cattery and kitten/cub facility. A disposable towel/ blue roll should be placed next to the foot dip to dry footwear and prevent slips/falls on the tiled floor. Alternatively, dedicated shoes for the communal area must be provided and everyone entering the area must change their footwear prior to entering the communal area.
4. Protective gloves (you will need plenty of them as we go through around 20 pairs per person per day) may be necessary for handling kittens/cubs with confirmed or suspected contagious diseases.  Handlers of adult cats must shower (including hair washing) and change before handling kittens/cubs, and vice versa.
5. The isolation and nursery area floors and walls must be disinfected daily and communal areas disinfected twice daily. If they are not able to be wiped down e.g. wooden, then use a spray tool pictured above and allow to dry before letting cats back into the area.
6. Separate cloths should be kept for wiping cub’s faces and bodies.  These must be cleaned and disinfected regularly between uses.

REDUCE THE SPREAD

1. After touching raw meat, change your gloves and do not touch:
   1. Door handles
   2. Steering Wheels
   3. Keys
   4. Padlocks
   5. Walls
   6. Clothing
2. Remember ‘people’ are a source of infection and can introduce bacteria into the area. Always ask visitors to wash their hands and wear PPE when near the cattery or your cats. Use Perspex to prevent touching of cats in certain cases.
3. Wash your hands properly – not just a quick rinse. A guide to handwashing can be found here: http://www.cdc.gov/handwashing/
   
4. Do not use kitchen sinks to bathe cats/ kittens if necessary or to wash their cage or equipment. The risk of transmission in this case is very high – even if you use a basin to wash dishes in – bacteria climbs and grows – yuk!
5. Ensure every area you have been in contact with is thoroughly cleaned afterwards!
6. Do not eat, drink or smoke when you are near your exotic cats.

 
WASTE DISPOSAL

1. IF you are disposing of the water from cleaning litter trays then you should do this down the toilet, not in a sink/ bath or shower. Ideally you should have a dedicated drainage source for cattery cleaning.

CHILDREN

1. Children are a great source of interaction for the cats as are the cats to the children. ALWAYS supervise. Ensure they do not put their hands in their mouth or kiss the animals.
2. Thorough hand washing is advised before touching or feeding a baby or young child. The risk of health in not doing so is HIGH in these cases.

MAJOR POINT

Ensure all cleaning products are phenol-free and safe for use in cats (felids are susceptible to phenolic poisoning).
ENSURE YOU ARE USING A GOOD MOISTURISER ON YOUR HANDS AFTER YOUR WORKING DAY WITH ANIMALS IF YOU ARE REGULARLY HAND SCRUBBING TO REDUCE PROLONGED IRRITATION TO SKIN.

Suggested cleaning products: (We use both of these products)
Blankets (cleaned daily)
FIOSC or VIRKON S            
Cages (cleaned daily)
FIOSCXD or VIRKON S      
Foot Bath (changed daily) [ if used]
FIOSCXD or VIRKON S      
Face and Bottom Cloths (changed daily)
Milton                     12.5ml per litre.                 Soak for at least 30 min. 
                                    Rinse thoroughly in water before use
Floors and Other Hard Surfaces (cleaned twice daily or as necessary)
FIOSCXD or VIRKON S      
Vaccuum hoses, heads, brushes and internal (cleaned weekly)
FIOSCXD or VIRKON S      

VIRKON s:
Virkon S is the premier broad spectrum virucidal veterinary disinfectant, is recognised by industry and governments worldwide as a disinfectant of choice for livestock disease prevention and control. Virkon S is a pink powder that is added to water to make a disinfectant solution. The standard dilution is 1% (at this dilution rate this 10kg pack willl make 1000 litres of disinfectant).

Virkon S features and benefits:

1. Defra approved
2. Outstanding virucidal properties
3. Suitable for organic farming
4. Ideal foot dip disinfectant
5. Used to disinfect surfaces, equipment and water system
6. No need for disinfectant rotation
7. Not classified as hazardous for transport

Virkon S Defra approvals
    Foot & Mouth Disease: 1g in 1300ml of water
    Swine Vesicular Disease: 1g in 100ml of water
    Diseases of Poultry: 1g in 280ml of water
    General orders: 1g in 100ml of water
Surface disinfection
Routine disinfection for all surfaces, earth, wood, and concrete. Use a 1:100 dilution (10g of Virkon S for every litre of water). Apply via a pressure washer or other mechanical sprayer, apply Virkon S solution at an application rate of 300ml/m2.
Equipment disinfection
Routine cleaning and disinfection of movable farm equipment. Use a 1:100 dilution (10g of Virkon S for every litre of water). Apply using a brush or pressure washer, wash all equipment in Virkon S solution until visibly clean.
Water system disinfection.
Terminal disinfection 1:100 to 1:200. Continuous disinfection 1:1000.
Foot dips
Routine disinfection of footwear. Use a 1:100 dilution (10g of Virkon S for every litre of water). Replace solution once it has either become soiled or after 4-5 days.